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Expert Review - Vintage 2021

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 91 Points | There is a touch of post-bottling reduction, but the underlying fruit seems to be ripe. On the palate there is excellent freshness and verve to the utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors that also exude a more prominent minerality on the beautifully textured, long and well-balanced finish that is shaped by notably fine-grained tannins. This is also lovely and a wine that should be approachable in its youth yet repay up to a decade of keeping, perhaps even slightly more.

Winemaker Description 

GRAPES: Cinsault (100%). 

Cinsault has been farmed in the Bekaa Valley since the mid-19th century before ceding the way to new imported varieties. In 2014, Domaine des Tourelles decided to revive this grape by searching out very old Cinsault vines, over 50 years of age, and fermenting the wines in concrete tanks using wild yeasts and nothing else to offer the purest expression of that grape. The result is a supple wine that beautifully reflects the terroir of the Bekaa Valley, with an aging potential of several years.

Published by Jancis Robinson

There is not much I can say about Bekaa-born Faouzi Issa co-owner and winemaker of Domaine des Tourelles in the Bekaa Valley, that has not already been said by Jancis and Tam but in a week in which Lebanon has again been in the news because of death and destruction, I wanted to celebrate the life that continues to be created every year at Domaine des Tourelles in the most challenging circumstances imaginable. (See Michael Karam’s Lessons in wine-region survival.)

Issa told me on Wednesday that the nearest pager explosion to them was 1 km away from the winery.

In 2018, the year Domaine des Tourelles celebrated its 150th anniversary, Jancis’s articles Lebanon and the new Serge Hochar? and Lebanon’s oldest winery told of Issa’s journey into wine, via Bordeaux’s Château Margaux and René Rostaing in the Rhône, as well as giving a brief history of Domaine des Tourelles, Lebanese wine more generally and the arrival of Cinsault in the country in the 19th century along with Carignan and Grenache.

Tam continued the story in 2022 in more personal terms in Old-vine wines – part 1 Lebanon, describing Issa as ‘that mesmeric combination of scientist, engineer and romantic’, at the same time highlighting Issa’s commitment to old vines.

The first vintage of this wine was 2014, which was when Issa realised that the old vines offered something special and deserved to be bottled separately (they now have four wines in their Old Vine Collection). He explains, ‘Cinsault has been farmed in the Bekaa Valley since the mid 19th century before ceding the way to new imported varieties.’ For many a year, it was the most widely planted variety in the country but it is now much less popular than it once was.

Memo Serving Suggestions

Food Pairings: The perfect match for Levantine and Mediterranean cuisine. It pairs excellently with lamb chops, beef tagine, grilled vegetables (ratatouille), or a classic Mezze platter.

Winery Notes

Quality sparkling wine with very fine bubbles due to its long aging. Complex aroma, fresh notes of pineapple and eucalyptus, toasted cocoa and dried fruits, perfectly blended together. Voluminous, fleshy and fresh in the mouth. Structured and surprisingly fresh, long-lasting and well balanced.

Its high acidity and dry finish make it incredibly versatile:

• Tapas: Excellent with Jamón Ibérico, olives, and aged Spanish cheeses.

• Seafood: Perfect with oysters, sushi, or grilled shrimp.

• Anything Fried: The sharp acidity cuts beautifully through rich, fried foods like calamari or fried chicken.

FARMING

Certified Organic 

Winemaker Description

Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Syrah. Deep red in colour which lingers in the glass. The ageing in oak is noticeable, well blended with fruity aromas which give it finesse and complexity.

Mouth-filling and complex, smooth and well balanced on the palate. This is a wine which shows slightly smoked red fruit. 

Expert Reviews

Wine Advocate 90 Points | The organic Volpaia 2020 Balifico is an IGT blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet Sauvignon is impossible to miss, as this wine is very driven by aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate and garden herb that are linked to that varietal. This is a medium to full-bodied red blend that also delivers the dusty crushed stone aromas that I associate with Chianti Classico.

James Suckling 93 Points | Very pretty and floral aromas with orange blossom and currant character. Very attractive purity of fruit. It’s medium-bodied with polished and fine tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Tangy acidity. From organically grown grapes. Give it a year or two more but already gorgeous. Drink or hold.

Wine Spectator 92 Points | Loaded with black cherry, blackberry and floral aromas and flavors, this red is also firmly structured. Shows persistent fruit through the lingering aftertaste, where elements of earth and Tuscan scrub emerge. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2033.

Winemaker Description 

Castello dei Rampolla d'Alceo is a premium, proprietary blend of Cabernet and Petit Verdot grapes exclusively from the renowned Panzano in Chianti region of Tuscany. This organic and biodynamic red is sure to tantalize your taste buds with its complex bouquet and flavor profile.

Expert Reviews - VIntage 2009

Vinous 96 Points | The 2009 d'Alceo comes across as much more classic in style and structure than the 2008. According to Luca di Napoli, the trick to 2009 was harvesting on the early side. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, plums, mint and licorice all take shape in the glass Over the last few months, the 2009 d'Alceo has softened a bit, releasing expressive, floral aromatics, brighter shades of fruit and striking inner perfume, but it remains quite vibrant in the context of a vintage in which so many wines are quite a bit riper in style. The 2009 is a wonderfully deep, resonant d'Alceo that should offer a wide drinking window starting in a few years. It certainly looks like Rampolla nailed the vintage.  Drinking 2019 - 2039.

Antonio Galloni, 96+ | My absolute favorite wine of 2022 was a bottle of the Castello dei Rampolla 2006 d'Alceo that I had the good fortune to drink at dinner during a work event in Tuscany last year. I remember the wine vividly, and if I were to review it again, it would certainly merit a perfect score. With that profound inspiration in mind, I feel especially optimistic toward this outstanding group of new releases from Maurizia di Napoli and her talented team. This historic estate has farmed according to organic and biodynamic methods since 1994, making it one of the first in Italy to do so. In truth, I have found some inconsistencies along the way over the many years I have reviewed and adored these wines. Such is the magic of artisanal winemaking. But thanks to that memory of that 2006 d'Alceo, I remain in awe of Castello dei Rampolla today.