Wine Over $100

Wine Spectator | Harmonious and buttery this white features creamy lemon peach baking spice and sweet butter flavors. Well-balanced and integrated this is very approachable now yet with vibrant acidity underneath and a lingering tangy mineral-laced finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.

B.S.Burghound 91 Points |There are vague Chablis-like hints of iodine and seashore to the ultra-fresh aromas of green apple white flower and citrus peel. There is both good volume and richness to the focused and moderately powerful flavors that deliver fine length on the mineral-driven appealingly dry and youthfully austere finale. At present the mid-palate isn't especially dense though I suspect that with age it will flesh out significantly. (Drink starting 2030).

Magnificently concentrated, a very fine nose with aromas of acacias, honeysuckle blossoms and nuts. Very pure and powerful with superb depth that will age up to 10 years.
Serve with shellfish, lobster, foie gras and poultry dishes in creamy sauces.

Domaine Antonin Guyon is one of the most prestigious estates in the Côte d’Or, as well as one of the largest family-owned wineries in the region. It was started in the 1960s by Antonin Guyon with parcels of land in Gevrey and Meursault. Today, the massive 47 hectare property is controlled and operated today by Antonin’s sons, Dominique and Michel and produces wines of impeccable quality from 15 different appellations, which includes many renowned villages from the region. An exceptional range of Premier and Grands Crus.

WINEMAKING & VINTAGE NOTES

The Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru vineyards straddle the communes of Pernard Vergellesses and Aloxe-Corton and enjoy a south westerly exposure. The soil here is white marl, and almost pure limestone. Grapes are hand-harvested and then carried to the winery in small boxes, where they are sorted. Fermentation is carried out at 64-68°F in oak casks. Lees are stirred in the casks twice a week. Wines are aged in 50% new French oak. Winemaker Description. 

Expert Review

John Gilman 96 Points | This is my first taste of Domaine des Closiers top bottling, les Trezellières, which is made from a parcel of old vines and given fully two years aging in barrel, with somewhere between ten and twenty percent of the casks new. The 2019 les Trezellières is beautifully deep and refined aromatically, delivering scents of black cherries, cassis, Cuban cigar wrapper, a very complex base of soil, a touch of Cheval Blanc-like menthol, a gentle dollop of tree bark, cedar and a topnote of cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, elegant and rock solid at the core, with great focus and complex, superb soil undertow, fine-grained tannins and a very long, pure and classy finish.

The small percentage of new oak gives this wine more refinement than the les Coudraies bottling, but because it is no more than twenty percent new oak, the wood influence is far more subtle out of the blocks than in Clos Rougeard’s Le Bourg bottling, which is the closest comparison I can think of for this brilliant young Saumur Champigny. Give this beautiful wine plenty of time in the cellar to properly resolve its tannins and completely blossom! (2019). 

Winemaker Description

The weather in 1953 was very favourable to vine growth and the crop was both plentiful and of excellent quality.

The growing season began with a warm, wet April, followed by a very warm, but dry month of May.  June and July were cool and rainy, whereas August and September were dry and slightly warmer than average.

Flowering went very well in May because it did not rain very much. Even though June and July were cool, which slowed down the growth cycle somewhat, the harvest was able to begin on the 21st of September. The grapes were excellent because August and September we very dry and hot.  Yields were high, but 1953 Cheval Blanc shows that quantity and quality are not incompatible.
Degree of alcohol: 12°.

This is a great vintage for Cheval Blanc. The wine is very well-balanced and still elicits enormous praise.

Expert Reviews

Wine Spectator 95 Points | Deep garnet with a hint of purple to the color, the 2014 Pontet-Canet gives a very serious, classic Pauillac nose of blackcurrant preserves, baked blackberries and warm black plums with suggestions of menthol, pencil lead, woodsmoke, cassia and cast-iron pan plus a hint of baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves with a rock-solid frame of grainy tannins and bold freshness, giving lift to the long, exotic spice-laced finish. It is approachable now, but really should start to make jaws drop in another 4-5 years.Wine Enthusiast 96 points This is a finely structured wine with dark tannins and intense black fruits. The estate, with its biodynamically grown fruit, has given an impressively pure wine, packed with tight serious tannins and a fine structure of black-plum skins and intense acidity. It is direct, firm and with a huge potential over many years. Drink from 2027.  Cellar Selection

Decanter 96 Points | Classic Cabernet nose of cassis. Lovely purity and depth with a silky texture that caresses the palate - more obviously Pontet-Canet than Pauillac. An extremely fine wine almost in a class of its own.Jeb Dunnuck 96 points A final blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the 2014 Pontet-Canet is brilliant stuff, and I was able to taste this wine from barrel as well as multiple times from bottle, both at the estate and from a bottle purchased in the United States. It offers a sensational bouquet of crème de cassis, black raspberries, tobacco leaf, and minerals, as well as an unmistakable Pauillac lead pencil characteristics that I just adore. Possessing full-bodied richness, a rounded, surprisingly opulent, sexy texture, awesome purity, and sweet, succulent tannin, it’s a sensational 2014 that might just surpass what they accomplished in 2015. This is a 2014 you won’t regret buying in bulk as it’s going to keep for 2-3 decades and be drinkable for the vast majority of it. Bravo to Alfred Tesseron and his team!James Suckling 98 points A stunning wine for this vintage although it’s still a bit shy on the nose (more spice than fruit showing than now). There’s wet earth, too, but on the palate it’s bursting with ripe yet subtle flavors. Very long and complex finish that goes on and on. 

Winemaker Descripton

A wine of good density ruby red, with brown, mahogany, biscuit hints. The rim is fairly thick and the legs are fine, clear, abundant and regular. At once expressive, forthright and complex. There are notes of all families of fragrance: fruit, flowers, and spices. The attack is forthright, round and suave, soothing even. The intense aromas initially recall the complexity of the nose. There is leather and lightly charred wood, and roasted notes. The beauty of the wine is revealed by its elegance rather than its full-flavor. The wine has an attractive aromatic range with a finish of remarkable elegance.

Expert Reviews 

Jeb Dunnuck writes: In a vintage that can lack a little pizzazz, the 2014 Pape Clement stands out for its exuberant, sexy, full-bodied style. Checking in as a blend of 58% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new French oak, its deep purple color is followed by a layered, ripe, sexy wine that has loads of currants, blackberries, smoke tobacco, and forest floor aromas and flavors, with just a touch of chocolaty oak. Silky and incredibly pure on the palate, with impeccable balance and sweet, yet present tannin, it’s already impossible to resist, yet is going to deliver the goods for another 20-25 years. It’s a beauty! - Jeb Dunnuck 95

James Suckling writes: Intense blackberry and blueberry aromas as well as mushroom undertones. Violets, too. Sweet tobacco. Full-bodied and layered with polished tannins. Very long and beautiful. Give it two or three years to show what it has but already a beauty. - James Suckling 96

Neal Martin writes: The 2014 Pape Clement has quite a potent bouquet with lavish red cherry, kirsch, iodine and pastille-like scents, the oak probably needing another couple of years to fully integrate. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, quite refined and focused with appreciable tension towards the finish that comes laden with succulent, tobacco-infused blackberry fruit. This is a sumptuous and yet refined Pape-Clement that demonstrated the most matière or substance out of all the Pessac-Léognan 2014s that I tasted, except for the Haut-Brion. It is certainly a wine destined for a long future. - Robert Parker Wine Advocate 94

Antonio Galloni writes: The 2014 Pape Clément is strikingly beautiful. Dark, sumptuous and creamy, it exudes class. Black cherry, mocha, spice, espresso, menthol and new leather are all pushed forward in a spherical, rich wine that captivates all the senses. As always, this is an overt style, but the purity of the fruit comes through nicely now that the oak has started to integrate. There is plenty of the Magrez trademark richness, but done in a slightly more restrained style than in the past. This is a gorgeous wine by any measure. Tasted three times. - Vinous 94+

Richard Hemming MW writes: Creamy lemon, fresh and rounded on the palate – pure pleasure with loads of generosity but a good sense of savoury Bordeaux style. Effortless, fragrant, concentrated. Absolutely lovely! - Jancis Robinson 17.5

Jame Anson writes: Restrained compared to some vintages and all the more successful for it. Fine but firm tannins; grip and lovely hold to the dark, brambly, bilberry and cassis fruit. Great potential. - Decanter 94

Expert Review

Jancis Robinson 18 Points | Deep blackish ruby. Quite a complex, high-toned nose. Sweet and polished with treacle notes. Masses of fruit almost covers the tannins. Luscious. 2016 was excellent for both quality and quantity with great diurnal temperature variation, so they decided to make two extra tanks for a super-blend. (But not Asili because they don’t have too much of that cru.) 16,000 bottles were offered direct to importers. The blend spent three years in wood and three years in bottle so it was released only in 2023. The idea is to make Don Fiorino only when the vintage is perfect and they can also make all the single-vineyard wines. To be shipped to the UK in spring 2024.  Named after the priest who restarted the co-op after its beginnings in the village co-op. Catholic co-ops were common then as priests could read and write! Don Fiorino had a brilliant mind and had the foresight to convince the local farmers to make only Barbaresco even though in the 1950s and 1960s it was not easy to sell.  Drinking 2023 to 2040.  - Jancis Robinson

Wine Advocate | Monica Lerner writes 96 Points |  With exactly 16,090 bottles made, the Produttori del Barbaresco 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is another stellar experience in this series of nine single-vineyard Riserva wines from Barbaresco's most successful wine cooperative. The Ovello is quite sharp and defined in terms of its aromas of wild cherry, dried violet and powdered licorice. Those mineral tones are very clear in this classic vintage. However, the Ovello finishes on a slightly softer note (compared to the Pajè) with a finer and more approachable tannin. The blended fruit for this cru is supplied by the Audasso, Cavallo, Cravanzola, Gonella, Grasso, Maffei, Odore, Sarotto, Unio, Vacca and Varaldo families.  Drinking 2024 to 2048. 

Vinous | Antonio Galloni writes 97 Points |  The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the most severe and angular of these wines. It will appeal most to die-hard classicists. Chalk, white pepper, mint and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this chiseled, beautifully translucent Barbaresco. As always, the Ovello needs a number of years in bottle to reveal its charms, which in 2016 are many. It is a positively stellar wine in every way.  Drinking 2026 to 2041.

Wine Spectator | Bruce Sanderson writes 96 Points |  Rich, broad and spicy, exhibiting plum, cherry, tar, licorice and eucalyptus aromas and flavors. Offers muscle and grace, with intensity and persistence on the long finish. To be released April 2023. Best from 2024 through 2040. 

Winemaker Description

Dermot Surgue has been behind some of the best English wines over the last two decades. He is the man "who put English sparkling wine on the map"(Independent Newspaper) and was even called the "best winemaker in England" by the late, great Steven Spurrier. 

Made in tribute to his late brother, the Sugrue Cuvée Boz Blanc de Blancs 2015 is a magical release from the Jenkyn Place single-vineyard in Hampshire. When Vinous's Neal Martin, the "most famous and influential wine reviewer in the world" (Greg Sherwood MW), calls the 2015 Cuvée Boz an "outstanding English sparkling wine" and 'one of the best' he has tasted, then one takes notice. 

Expert Review

Scoring 18/20 from JancisRobinson.com's Tamlyn Currin, her joint-highest ever scoring English sparkling, and 94 points from Vinous, this chiselled Blanc de Blancs is "charged with the purest canon of English fruit" (TC). A 2015 that is "very well balanced and poised, quite weighty" (VN) on the palate, this new edition of Cuvée Boz has a wonderful minerality that cuts through the gorgeous notes of ripe pear and elderflower honey "like a flashing blade of Valyrian steel" (TC). With an advised drinking window up to 2036, this will have the cellar life of a top quality Champagne. 

Expert Ratings - Vintage 2016

Wine Spectator 93 points This has a wide range of red currant, blackberry, black cherry and açaí berry fruit flavors forming the core, with a very sleek iron note lurking underneath it all. The finish uses a fine singed wood stitching to pull the fruit and minerality together. Lovely.Wine Enthusiast 94 points This is a dense, smoky wine with powerful tannins. It follows the line of richness set since the 2014 vintage and balances rich black fruits and con-centrated tannins cut with final acidity. Drink from 2025

Wine Advocate 94 points The 2016 Gruaud Larose is blended of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with notes of red and black cherries, warm plums and freshly crushed blackcurrants plus hints of violets, oolong tea, aniseed and tilled soil with a waft of garrigue. Medium-bodied, the palate struts tons of elegantly fragrant red and black fruit flavors with a firm backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and loads of freshness, finishing long and perfumed.

Decanter 95 points This is well built and powerful, not exactly subtle, but then none of these wines are. Instead you get complex, layered and concentrated inky fruits, with some aniseed too. The balance and elegance of St-Julien comes in through the tailored and fine tannins on the finish, but while these tannins may be fine, there are lots of them. 80% new oak. Drinking Window 2024.James Suckling 94 points So much sweet-tobacco and currant character with some earth on the nose. Full body, firm and chewy tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Closed and complex still, but a typically beautiful Bordeaux. Try after 2022.

Vinous 93 points The 2016 Gruaud-Larose has quite a fruit-driven, generous bouquet of layers of black and red fruit laced with graphite and tertiary aromas. Is there just a slight touch of brettanomyces here? The medium-bodied palate is earthy and a little ferrous, with rounded tannin, and quite approachable compared to its peers. Slightly smudged toward the finish, but it shows great persistence. Very fine, very Gruaud. 

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2020 

Jeb Dunnuck writes:  One of the wines of the vintage is Jean-Luc Thunevin's 2020 Château Valandraud, which comes from the cooler, eastern side of Saint-Emilion. Exhibiting a dense purple hue as well as an incredible perfume of crème de cassis, ripe black cherries, violets, new leather, and an almost Hermitage-like burning embers character, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ripe, seamless tannins, remarkable purity of fruit, and a finish that won't quit. A blend of 85% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it's clearly in the same league as the 2019, if not slightly more concentrated. Give bottles 5-7 years in the cellar, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 20-25 years or so.  Drinking 2028 to 2053.  - Jeb Dunnuck 99

William Kelley writes:  If the 2019 vintage at this address was something of a guilty pleasure, the 2020 Valandraud is simply guilty as charged. Exhibiting aromas of jammy black fruits mingled with toasted coconut, spices and caricatural slatherings of new oak, it's full-bodied, rich and chewy, with generously extracted tannins that clamp down on the finish. All that oak and extract impedes access to the wine's generous fruit, rendering it less demonstrative and gourmand than its 2019 counterpart, and that's a pity, as recent vintages of Valandraud have been among the more successful of the few remaining hold-out "garagiste" wines of the Right Bank.  Drinking 2025 to 2043.  - Robert Parker Wine Advocate 92

Jane Anson writes:  Juicy, perfectly judged, delicious brambled fruits, this is exuberant without being overdone, just oozing with pleasure, inviting you to come on board. Expect waves of liqourice, powerful damson brambled jam, lime blossom, orange peel marmalade and saffron. This needs a good five more years in bottle before approaching, but you want this in your cellar. Founders Arnaud-Thunevin now in a 50% ownership with the Lefevre family from Sansonnet, 100% new oak, 49hl/ha yield.  Drinking 2027 to 2048.  - Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux

James Suckling writes:  Very opulent and expressive aromas of black fruit and pine needles. So floral. Full-bodied with plush, velvety tannins and lots of fruit and texture. It goes on for minutes. Rich at the finish, but remains fresh and vivid. Superb. One of the great Valandrauds. Drink after 2027.  - James Suckling 99

Antonio Galloni writes:  The 2020 Valandraud is a stunner. Rich, deep and explosive, the 2020 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Silky tannins wrap around a core of plush dark red/black fruit, licorice, spice, mocha and new leather. Even with all of its intensity, the 2020 is bright and wonderfully focused. Sweet floral and blood orange accents liven up the explosive finish. Magnificent.  Drinking 2028 to 2060.  - Vinous 98

Georgina Hindle writes:  Juicy and alive, a brightness to this even though the fruits are dark in profile - blackcurrant, black cherry, herbal-tinged blueberries - heady and seductive. Layers of acidity, mint, freshness and toast combine to give quite a full and complex palate with everything at the fore yet staying the right side of being too much. Strong and characterful but totally charming. I love the St-Emilion glamour and muscle, softly flexing with a salty minerality and unmistakable signature.  Drinking 2027 to 2046.  - Decanter 93

Jane Anson writes:  This is excellent, broad-shouldered with ample depth to the brambled fruits, liquorice, cigar box spice, with a gorgeously saline finish. Chalky, grippy tannins keep tugging you back into the body of the wine. The tannic grip is helped by a linen rather than silk texture that stops things being overly smooth and instead adds depth and interest to the powerfully knitted body, as do white flowers on the aromatics as it opens. Good stuff. 100% new oak for 24 months. A yield of 49hl/ha. Thunevin has sold a 50% stake in Valandraud to the Lefevre family at Sansonnet (also the new owners of Villemaurine, so a busy year for them).  Drinking 2029 to 2046.  - Decanter 96

Julia Harding MW writes:  Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark and oaky – lots of 70% dark chocolate. Pretty oaky, covering all else. The tannins are big and dense but there’s enough fresh fruit to fill it out for the long term.  Drinking 2030 to 2045.  - Jancis Robinson 17++

James Molesworth writes:  Tilts to the showy side, with a flourish of black currant and fig preserves, warmed black tea, melted black licorice and a hint of alder smoke as well, all framed by a warm loam- and espresso crema-accented finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2027 through 2040.  - Wine Spectator 93

Winemaker Notes

Expert Reviews

Wine Spectator 99 Points |  Stunning and pure from the get-go, with intense cassis and blackberry fruit. Ultimately takes a slightly austere approach, with a wrought-iron structure driving along while pastis, black tea, licorice snap and asphalt notes course underneath. Long and loaded with grip, this remains remarkably fine-grained. A very chiseled Cabernet that is wonderfully precise and incredibly long. Best from 2020 through 2040. 12,000 cases made.

Wine Advocate 96 Points | The 2010 is a quintessentially elegant, classic wine of Bordeaux - firm, rigid, perhaps slightly lighter than most of the other St.-Juliens, but stylish, potentially complex, and reminiscent of the style of the 1986, but more concentrated and powerful. It is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc with a normal pH of 3.56. It was raised in 75% new oak and the alcohol came to 13.7%. This wine displays loads of black currants, cedar wood and vanillin, but needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring, if not much longer. It should last for 30+ years.

Expert Review - Vintage 2020

Wine Spectator 95 Points | Supple and silky in texture, this red is elegant, bordering on racy. Delivers cherry, raspberry, violet and spice flavors that are beautifully balanced with the solid structure. Tightens up on the finish, a good sign of...

Decanter 93 Points | A smoky, rich aroma that blends black plum and fig notes, with a hint of minerality and a bit of the almost 'animal' aroma of Nuits - that slightly exotic character that adds an extra dimension. Although the wine is... 

The Wine Advocate 91-93 Points |  Notes of rich berry fruit, blood orange, rose petals and spices introduce the 2020 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots (Domaine Gagey), a medium to full-bodied, velvety and ample wine that's layered and...

Vinous 90-92 Points | The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru has a conspicuous fish scale scent on the nose that complements the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, sappy red fruit.

Winemaker Description

Scent of strawberries, cherries, raspberries, mushrooms and spices. The taste is mineral with a touch of smoke and forest. Healthy acid and a persistent, long finish.

The grapes are picked by hand and put in small baskets so as not to damage the fruit. The grapes are then carefully sorted by hand and before being relincted. The maceration then takes place in open wooden barrel or stainless steel tanks for 3 to 4 weeks. The casks and thoughts are punched and twice a day during the fermentation

The Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine Leflaive has the particularity to only come from vineyards located in the town of Puligny, making it easily one of the best Bourgogne Blanc you could get your hands on. This is the perfect first step into the Domaine Leflaive’s unique offerings. All vineyards are farmed biodynamically. 

"A very pretty nose freely reveals its aromas of apple, pear and lemon rind. The succulent, delicious and appealingly vibrant middleweight flavors possess a relatively refined texture while displaying fine depth and length for a wine of this level. The 20% addition of young vines from upper-level vineyards clearly helps and overall, this is excellent." Allen Meadows - Burghound

Winemaker Description

The result of a nearly perfect, long and cool ripening season (and oblivious to the Covid chaos swirling around it), the 2020 was picked and in the barn fully two and a half weeks before the Glass Fire broke out. Industrial-grade air filters kept smoke out of the winery as the wines went down to barrels. We are so grateful, and relieved, to present the lovely 2020.

This wine is wildly complex with tart cherry, blueberry, red and black currants, raspberry, plum and boysenberry fruit, fleshed out with notes of baking spices and peppermint. The tannins are characteristically polite yet grippy. Mineral notes add lift and the evolving violet perfume is so pretty. - Cathy Corison.

Expert Ratings - Vintage 2020 

Decanter 96 Points | Medium to full-bodied beautiful and restrained with savoury aromatics of fennel black liquorice cedar and black currants. Soft satiny blackberry fruits are lifted by fine-grained yet supple tannins while a purity of fruit guides the palate to a long tobacco-tinged finish marked by a mineral-freshness that beckons sip after sip. 100% Cabernet aged 18 months in 50% new French oak barrels. (Drink between 2023-2035. (2020).

Wine Spectator 93 Points | Distinctive, with a vivid display of mulberry, pomegranate and plum fruit aromas and flavors that glide through easily, carried by a silky but persistent structure. Reveals nice floral nuances through the finish, with a late twinge of iron, too. (2020). 

James Suckling 92 Points | Quite fruit-expressive and floral with spiced dark cherries rust baked plums hibiscus and violet extract on the nose. Rich and fruity with tart cherries cassis and dried herbs on the palate. Full-bodied and juicy with silky tannins that smoothen it out. Drink or hold.

The Wine Advocate 91 Points | Corison fans should enjoy the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon. Gentle herbal streaks run through the wine's classic black cherries and cassis fruit. Medium-bodied sleek and streamlined it shows vibrant energy and ample length framed by gentle silky tannins.

Jeb Dunnuck 91 Points | The base 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty with a medium-bodied elegant style as well as lots of sappy herbs flowers and currant-driven aromatics fine tannins and nicely integrated acidity. Drink this balanced satisfying old school Cabernet over the coming 10-12 years or so. This Cuv e spent 18 months in 50% new oak.

Winemaker Description

There is so much perfume in this wine: fresh flowers and lavender are bolstered by ripe plum, sandalwood and cherry compote. There’s also an incredibly appealing note of Earl Grey or bergamot that lifts the entire aromatic profile. Lingering behind the fruit is where the action starts as black pepper, vanilla, crushed rock and soy are revealed.

Farming requires optimism. That’s especially true in viticulture, given the timeline to transition bare ground into a finished wine.

At a minimum, it takes three years from gently hand-planting each individual vine to the first harvest. However, that initial crop is quite small and it will be another two to three years before the vines really hit their stride. After harvest, fruit destined for the Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon will spend an additional two years in barrel before bottle aging in our cellar prior to release. At best, it’s six solid years of farming, winemaking and cellaring before we can pull that first cork. That type of commitment requires a fundamental belief in ourselves, our work and our mission.

We have to believe that going the extra mile, pushing a little harder and accounting for every small detail is not only worth it, but will be appreciated years from now. Moreover, we have to be curious, creative and daring for the future of each wine and the land we steward. In short, we have to believe that the future will be better and we cherish our small contribution.

Burghound | A much more floral-inflected nose freely offers up its aromas of cool and ripe pear, apple and zest. There is good richness if not quite the same density to the more finely textured middleweight flavors that conclude in a crunchy bitter lemon-tinged finale. Lovely and understated.

Expert Rating

Vinous Stephen Tanzer writes 93 Points | (from 63-year-old vines in the center of the vineyard; aged in a combination of old barriques and new larger casks) Sweet aromas of redcurrant, cherry, smoke and mint, all lifted by high notes of orange peel, rose petal and minerals. Concentrated, vibrant and gripping, with a silky quality and noteworthy precision to the flavors of red fruits, spices and minerals. Harmonious acidity gives a juicy, sappy quality and real elegance to this densely packed Barbaresco. Here the tannins are considerably finer than those of the normale, and the long, juicy, gripping finish leaves behind a captivating floral perfume. A beauty. 

This is from a massale selection, including a bit of the lighter, floral rose clone of nebbiolo while the rest of the vineyard features five different clones. 

Winemaker Description

Expert Reviews

Vinous Antonio Galloni 97 Points | The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is sure to make Dunn fans happy. Powerful and ample, it marries the natural intensity of the year with the savoriness that makes Howell Mountain Cabernets so distinctive. Dark blue/purplish fruit, graphite, spice, leather, dried herbs and lavender imbue the 2017 with striking intensity and character. I can't wait to see how it ages. The 2017 is a positively stunning edition of the Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drinking 2027 - 2047.

Robert Parker Joe Czerwinski 96 Points | Already more open than the 2018 Howell Mountain, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain boasts slightly piney, resinous herb notes—thyme and rosemary—along with classic cassis and blueberry fruit. Yes, there's a cedary coat of oak, but the fruit comes through loud and clear, adding a rich, velvety textural component and mouthwatering berry flavors on the lingering finish.  Drinking 2025 - 2040  - Robert Parker Wine Advocate 96+

Wine Spectator James Molesworth 95 Points | Fresh ripe cassis, blackberry and plum fruit flavors course through, carried by tar and apple wood notes that are well-embedded, giving this a muscular but sleek feel. Features a great tug of dark earth and licorice snap on the palate-staining finish. Best from 2023 through 2038. 

Expert Review

Lettie Teague writes:  The de Nonancourt family, which took over Champagne Laurent-Perrier in 1939, holds majority shares of this very large Champagne house. (The rest are publicly traded; Laurent-Perrier is listed on the Euronext stock exchange.) Interestingly enough, though one of Laurent Perrier’s greatest claims to fame is its lush, 100% Pinot Noir cuvée rosé, the non-vintage La Cuvée brut is produced from a high proportion of Chardonnay. The result is a round, relatively soft and approachable, medium-bodied Champagne with a fresh acidity. Not every Champagne is substantial enough to serve with food, but this one certainly proved to be so, pairing perfectly with a piece of grilled fish.  - Wall St. Journal, Dec 16-17, 2023

Winemaker Description

The Pact 2019 lives up to Faust legend with beautiful dark blueberry and blackberry aromas over layers of crushed rock minerality, haunting forest notes and hints of violet. With the texture of velvet—luxuriously dense—the palate wraps that core of blue and back fruit with the barest edge of bright cherry spiced with star anise and savory dried tarragon. Silky tannins and generous ripe fruit linger through an endless, vibrant finish. There’s a long life ahead for this Cabernet.

Expert Reviews

James Suckling 96 Points | Redcurrants and blackcurrants with some violets and crushed earth. Full-bodied with round, creamy tannins. Fine, velvety tannins that are open and grounded. Firm and tight finish. (2019). 

Wine Spectator 93 Points | Leads with a bright savory edge, followed quickly by a wave of dark fig, blackberry and açaí berry flavors. Subtle alder and chaparral notes add nice lift through the finish. Best from 2023. (2019). 

Winemakers Description

Bertani’s impact on Veneto wine making, particularly in Amarone production, is so considerable that ‘Bertani’ and ‘Amarone’ are nearly synonymous. Their 150+ year history is dotted with groundbreaking initiatives and royal accreditation. While respectful of their past, Bertani strives towards innovation, using progressive techniques and equipment allied with extensive experience and a deeply felt respect for tradition to provide wines of uncompromising quality. 

Expert Reviews

James Suckling 97 Points | Density and dryness that really comes together here, after almost 10 years in bottle. It’s very deep and vertical on the palate. Very pure and beautiful crushed cherries, dried flowers, carbon and pumice. Wonderful all round. Drink or hold. 

Decanter Aldo Fiordelli 94 Points | One of the most classic Amarones, which has never changed its elegant rather than powerful style. The 2011 vintage was challenging, with a warm and rainy summer, but overall it was very good – Bertani isn’t averse to skipping a vintage if it’s not at the top level. Bright garnet in the glass, this is dominated by leather, earthy tones and restrained raspberry fruit. The fresh character is intense, with hints of citrus, slightly oxidative flavours and a Modica salted-chocolate finish. Full and firm, with slightly rustic tannins yet outstanding balance between suppleness and structure.  Drinking 2021 - 2047 

Wine Spectator Alison Napjus 91 Points | A poised red, expanding slowly on the palate, with fine, creamy tannins enmeshed with a range of black cherry coulis, black plum reduction, iron, dark chocolate and tobacco notes. Fresh and focused, with a lasting, spiced finish. Drink now through 2031. 

98 Points Jeb Dunnuck | Based on 60% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, with 17% raised in barrels, the 2008 Champagne Nicolas François spent more than 150 months on its lees, with 2.9 grams per liter dosage. It pours a rich straw hue and is layered and long with aromas of truffle, apricot, croissant, floral orange blossoms, and marmalade. Full-bodied, it’s supple in texture, with a rounded mousse, and has a long-lasting, mouthwatering finish. Exceptionally well-balanced, it comes together seamlessly on the finish. This will be a wine to enjoy over the next three decades. 

97 Points Decanter | On release this is reserved, taut and subtle, with sourdough, confit lemon and gentle blackberry Pinot fruit presented with daring dryness (just 2.9g/L residual sugar) and intensity. The texture surrounding the firm acidity is cool, clean and lightly creamy, the mousse beautifully delicate. Somewhat inscrutable and firm at the moment, this structured and lean Cuvée Nicolas François stands to gain considerable expressiveness with time under cork. Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from 83% grand cru vineyards. 17% oak-vinified with 150 months on lees, disgorged in summer 2022. 

97 Points James Suckling | Lovely precision and drive to this with aromas of lemon curd, brioche, praline, apricots, pomelos, mandarin zest and salted caramel. It’s held together by a sharp, citrusy backbone of acidity, balanced with a fine, silky mousse. Both structure and softness here. Citrus fruit brightness on a beautifully elegant and seamless finish. 

96 Points Wine Advocate | The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from Aÿ, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels. 

96 Points Vinous | The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is an electric, nervy Champagne that very much reflects the style of the year. Crushed rocks, mint, spice, dried herbs, hazelnut, lemon peel and marzipan are all beautifully laced together. The 2008 is just entering its first plateau of maturity, making it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next two decades, possibly more. The blend id 60% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay (from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant). It's a terrific effort, although I must add that a recent visit made it pretty clear that even better things lie ahead. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. 

94 Points Wine Spectator | A vibrant Champagne, with vivid acidity enmeshed with the lacy mousse, creating a fine frame for flavors of black currant and apricot fruit, preserved lemon, toast and ground coffee. Reveals minerally hints of oyster shell and brine that linger on the finish. 

Winemaker Description 

Les Pleiades is a blend of equally Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from Saulchery in a lieut-dit called Les Chapelles. 100% from harvest 2018. The wine fermented in barrels and right after malolactic racked to a stainless steel tanks. It was bottled in July 2020 and disgorged with 0 dosage in November 2022.

Jerome Lefevre name this cuvee Pleiades in reference to his 7 different parcels he debuted his domaine with, also The Pleiades, in greek mythology, were the companions of Artemis, the seven daughters of the titan Atlas and the sea-nymph Pleione born on Mount Cyllene.
Just like the artist Ben Shahn said ““Art is always visionary. Art always disturbs present realities, however satisfactory they may seem to the rest of the world.” I believe Jerome Lefevre is an artist consistently pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable in Champagne. His farming and winemaking can be described nonconformist.

Jérôme Lefevre, from Champagne Delalot, is one of those exciting artist that continues the fundamental idea of seeking unknown gems that propels Avant-Garde movement.
Jérôme is a native of the “Far West” of the Marne valley, at the edge of the Champagne appellation, in the towns of Saulchery, Charly Sur Marne, Bonneil and Crogy.  Here, Jérôme creates Champagne Delalot and Champagne Jerome Lefevre. 

Jérôme’s teenage years were guided by a deep passion for heavy metal and the family life of vineyards trained by his mother, Eliane Delalot.  Not till several years of working as an art critic and art curator did Jerome’s passion towards the craft of Champagne arise.  Elaine’s respectful farming practices became organic certification under Jerome’s direction in 2009. Inspired by the Fukuoka principals of farming, Jerome began his journey into winemaking. Since his first harvest in 2013, Jerome has grown his vineyards from 1ha to 1.5ha while tending to his land like a gardener.  He does not use any heavy machinery, including tractors.  The vineyards are located on slopes facing south and southeast with predominately sandy soil and some clay.
It’s impossible to classify Jerome’s style. Each cuvées come from specific parcels and are experimental. He seeks the boundaries of what Champagne allows him to do and sometimes tries new techniques while maintaining respect of the terroir. As it is hard to find more vineyards, Jerome’s Champagne Delalot production is limited to 5,000 bottles.

Seeking to further push experimentation, Jerome started an additional project in 2017 with a micro-negoce named Champagne Jérôme Lefevre. These cuvées are even more avant-garde, Rated X (named in honor of the Miles Davis’s album) is a wine without dosage but full or residual sugar backed with acidity.  The Coteaux Champenois Composition #2 is made from red grapes vinified white and aged in barrels with some oxidative moments through the aging.

As Champagne changes, Jerome is at the forefront of a new generation of wine producers that offer us wine lovers with that thrill of a first-time or second-time discovery. 

Expert Reviews 

Burghound 89 Points | Cool and airy aromas are comprised by notes of petrol, white flowers and citrus zest. I like the mouthfeel of the equally tension-filled and mineral-driven middle weight flavors that exhibit evident minerality on the bone-dry, liner and youthfully austere finale. This is also quite good and worth checking out. 

Critic Notes

95 Points Wine Enthusiast "Cellar Selection" |  The Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon's smoky leather and cigar make for a formidable entry on the nose before huge, layered tannins rise to the fore. A balance of acidity and brightness lurks beneath the weight, rounded by succulent blackberry and black cherry. Cellar through 2030.

Winemaker Description 

Rewarding with extraordinary depth and poise, the drinking pleasure of 2021 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon begins with notes of royal cassis that fan out on the palate and continue with silky black cherry and refined dark berry fruit framed by bakers’ chocolate, cedar, and toasted sage. A lush, supple midpalate displays firm yet suave tannins balanced by a juicy texture lent by a deft blending of Merlot from the estate’s hillside vineyards. This is both a classic wine and vintage, finishing like it begins, with a flourish of brambly blackberry fruit lifted by accents of violets and bergamot. 

The Ramonet estate is one of the legendary estates of the Côte de Beaune. The grandfather, Pierre Ramonet, a talented winemaker, already sold his wines across the Atlantic before World War II and in French starred restaurants. Noël and Jean-Claude Ramonet continued his work, while putting the terroirs in the right direction thanks to better control of yields.

The two brothers come and separated, by mutual agreement. Noël just wants to work his vines and deliver his grapes to his brother Jean-Claude who will be in charge of winemaking and marketing. For wine lovers from this world famous estate, there will be no change. Just two labels, that of the Ramonet estate and that of the Jean-Claude Ramonet wine merchant. Jean-Claude will also take care of part of the vineyards of the Girardin estate, bought by the Bordeaux resident Philippe Capdouze, founder of Ficofi (an ultra-select club for the sale of great wines). Its whites remain a benchmark in Burgundy.

Expert Reviews 

Jan Anson 100 Points | A classical vintage that perfectly suits the Opus style. Gorgeous vivid plum colour, sculpted, balanced, with a ton of lift, waves of rose petals, iris and peony, soft grilled cumin, sage and white pepper spice. Love the hidden power here and the supple slightly chalky tannins that are structured in their architecture with a precision and carved quality. Precise, layered and stretched out, a brilliant Opus, concentrated and yet delicate. Feels pared back and captures the spirit of early Opus, when it moved forward the conversation of what Napa could be. Michael Silacci director, 100% new oak for ageing extremely well integrated even now.

James Suckling 99 Points | An enticing aroma of violets, cherry blossoms, fresh blue and black fruit and great structure define this beautiful, age-worthy wine. Subtle layering of fruit and oak spices between firm, fine-grained and supportive tannins gives it a calm intensity. So elegant and polished. Hints of cinnamon and graphite accent blackcurrant and blueberry flavors that linger and grow in a long finish. Already attractive to drink, but best after 2029.

Decanter 98 Points |  The 2021 Opus One is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, and half a percent each of Malbec and Merlot. It was aged up to 19 months in 100% new French oak. It's a seamless wine with balletic elegance and grace. From a deep ruby-crimson colour comes heady red and violet floral notes, sandalwood, and rich brown spices nuanced by graphite and dried sagebrush. Medium to full-bodied with ultrafine-grained tannins, almost powdery, with gorgeous cranberry and raspberry fruits and a kind of juicy, woody, crushed pomegranate seed character. You really can't believe how light and ephemeral this wine is.

The Wine Independent 98 Points | The 2021 Opus One is composed of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, and 0.5% each of Merlot and Malbec. It was bottled in July 2023. Deep garnet-purple in color, it comes barreling out of the glass with gregarious notions of creme de cassis, wild blueberries, and redcurrant jelly followed by hints of cedar chest, sassafras, vanilla pod, and dark chocolate plus a waft of lilacs. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers shimmery red, black, and blue fruit layers with a firm texture of rounded tannins and impressive tension, finishing long and fragrant.

Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points |  The 2021 Opus One is brilliant and I think one of the finest wines made from this estate. Deep ruby/purple-hued, with a gorgeous perfume of cassis, darker raspberries, spicy oak, and obvious minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, lots of ripe tannins, and a great finish. It shines on all accounts and is complex, nuanced, textured, and beautifully balanced. It will have 30 years of prime drinking.

Winemaker Description 

Opus one is the dream project between baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi. They both had a single dream of creating a single wine dedicated to uncompromising quality. Nearly four decades later, they still continue to refine the complex subtleties of Opus One by honoring traditional methods. The estate is made up of four estate vineyards, 100 acres are within the famed To Kalon Vineyard and another 70 acres are within the Ballestra and River parcels. The winemaking is lead by Micahel Silacci who combines intuition and technical acumen and has his hands in both the winemaking and vineyard practices.

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2021

The Wine Advocate 99 Points | Colgin's 2021 IX Estate is a rich, opulent example, with layers of ripe black cherries and dark chocolate punctuated by hints of sage and bay leaf, plus some vaguely floral notes (violets?). Full-bodied, concentrated, velvety and long, it's another terrific wine that showcases the potential of Pritchard Hill, the investment by the owners and the talent of the winemaking team.

James Suckling 99 Points | Red currant, lead pencil and terra cotta aromas with some bay leaf and sage. Full-bodied with tight, firm tannins that are polished and very fine. Turns to graphite. Extremely long, refined, polished and exquisite. Best after 2028.

98+ Points Jeb Dunnuck | I’d wager a Napa Valley legend in the making, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon IX Estate comes from the estate vineyard on Pritchard Hill, and if there was ever a classification of terroirs in the valley, this would check in near the top of the list. Deep purple-hued, with awesome aromatics of pure cassis, graphite, crushed stone, and subtle floral hints, this has that rare mix of power and elegance that defines so many great wines. Full-bodied, concentrated, and flawlessly balanced, it has no shortage of structure and is going to need 7-8 years, if not a decade, to hit full maturity, where it will hold for 2-3 decade.

98 Points Vinous | The 2021 IX Estate is such an elegant wine. Sleek, aromatic and refined, the 2021 is one of the most polished young wines I have tasted from this site. Red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal and mint abound. Silky and delineated, the 2021 is exceptionally beautiful and balanced. Clean saline notes and veins of tannin extend the explosive, sublime finish. 

Winemaker Description 

One of the "cult" producers to crop up in the early 1990s, Colgin Cellars' first vintage was in 1992, with fruit purchased from the Herb Lamb Vineyard, located on the lower slopes of Howell Mountain, just low enough not to be part of the Howell Mountain AVA. Colgin would later go on to buy land and develop vineyards at Tychson Hill (westside Saint Helena, purchased 1996) and IX Estate (Pritchard Hill, purchased in 1998). In 2017, Ann Colgin and her husband, Joe Wender, sold a controlling interest in Colgin Cellars to LVMH but remain active in the business.

Today, Colgin owns six acres of vines at Tychson Hill and 20 acres of vines at IX Estate, with 11 more acres there currently being developed. Cariad comes primarily from the Abreu-farmed Madrona Ranch, on the western side of Saint Helena. Director of Winemaking Allison Tauziet has been with Colgin since 2005, when she joined as assistant winemaker, so she is nearing 20 years of experience with these wines.

To put the new-release 2021s in perspective, Colgin, Wender and Tauziet presented three vintages each of the four wines reviewed this issue—2016, 2018 and 2021. I guess it will surprise no one that these are all gorgeous wines, given the positive press and numerous accolades bestowed on previous vintages, but it is encouraging to see that success and age hasn't slowed down the Colgin team's pursuit of excellence. I've included my ratings and reviews of the older vintages so readers can compare my impressions to those of my predecessor. Like many other producers, Colgin bottled no wines in 2020.