French Wine

Expert Review - Vintage 2022

Allen Meadows of Burghound | Ripe and very pretty aromas of both red and dark currant, violet, newly turned earth and a hint of crushed anise lead to rich, generous and round medium weight flavors that possess both fine volume and mid-palate density, all wrapped in a dusty, long and balanced finale where only a trace of rusticity is present. This always seem to outperform relative to its level chez Tollot and 2022 only adds to that reputation.

Winemaker Description 

The Tollot family represents a long lineage of winegrowers dating back to the late 1880s when François Tollot began planting vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune. Today, cousins Nathalie, Jean-Paul, and Olivier Tollot are in charge. The wines of Tollot-Beaut are well-known for their serious but pleasing style across a range of appellations from Bourgogne to Grand Cru.

The village of Aloxe-Corton sits at the foot of the Corton hill and is known for giving good-value red Burgundy that performs above its village-level status. A good Aloxe-Corton (pronounced Ahh-losse) will show some of the same structure, weight, and complexity found on the Grand Cru above.

Expert Review - Vintage 2022

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 91-93 Points | There is an interesting hint of white pepper to the cool and exceptionally pretty aromas of exotic tea, anise, violet and lavender. I very much like the caressing mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors that possess moderate austerity and excellent persistence, Lovely.

Winemaker Description 

Purple colour. The nose is spicy and slightly smoky, with notes of tobacco evolving with airing into aromas of red fruits. The attack is silky, and the mid-palate is fleshy. The wine has a good balance and a tasty and aromatic finish.

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2023 

Kristen Bieler writes:  For a demi-sec, this leans toward the dry, savory end of the spectrum. There are a lot of layers and substance to this, with a savory thread of green herbs and bitter white tea weaving through elderflower, quince and apple flavors, while gentle tannins provide a solid frame. Cool river stone and pink peppercorn notes line the finish, encased in smoke and salt, with length and a lot of depth. The toasty cedar notes will integrate with more time in bottle. Drink now through 2037. 740 cases made.  - Wine Spectator 93

Stuart Pigott Writes:  This off-dry Vouvray has terrific depth and a lovely creaminess that’s hard to resist, but it’s tightly wound and needs some time for the aromas to unfurl. With some aeration, red apple and honeysuckle notes emerge. Long, very clean finish that’s pretty dry thanks to the bright acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.  - James Suckling 93

Rebecca Gibb MW writes:  The 2023 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont boasts a residual sweetness (20g/l) that brings a sense of tenderness and amplitude to a terroir that's big on precision and tension. The flint component in the soil and the natural freshness of the 2023 vintage provide persistence and momentum. Pure and tender, there’s a distinctive spearmint-like cooling sensation on the long finish.  Drinking 2024 to 2038.  - Vinous 94

Producer Description 

The wine is a crimson-hued garnet red. The nose reveals red berry fruit aromas combined with delicate floral notes of peony and fresh mint. A dense and muscular attack leads into a full-bodied mid-palate whose juicy and expressive substance is underlined by well-rounded, silky tannins. The long and balanced finish lingers on notes of spice, especially white pepper.

Expert Reviews - 2021 Vintage

James Suckling 95 Points | This is surprisingly full-bodied and round, reflecting the warmth and sunny exposure of the vineyard around the chateau. Tangy and vivid with currants, fresh flowers and plenty of energy and length. Delicate yet ripe. 77% cabernet sauvignon, 19.5% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 0.5% petit verdot. Needs two or three years to come together completely. Drink after 2027.

Jeb Dunnuck 91-93 Points | The second wine of this great estate, the 2021 Le Petit Mouton De Mouton Rothschild checks in as 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19.5% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, brought up in 50% new barrels. It has plenty of class and charm, with pure Cabernet notes of cassis, graphite, tobacco, and damp earth. These carry to a medium-bodied, balanced, elegant, seamless wine with fine tannins, integrated oak, and a great finish.

Vinous 90-92 Points |  Representing 40% of the total volume, a little more than usual, the 2021 Le Petit-Mouton, is aged in 50% new oak. A very Cabernet nose with conspicuous graphite scents infusing the black fruit, a little Earl Grey in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, not amazingly complex but well balanced with fine tannins and just a pinch of black pepper on the finish. Classic in style, it should give 15-20 years of drinking pleasure.

Decanter 92 Points | Beautifully fragrant strawberries and red cherries, just so perfumed and appealing, really a very lovely nose drawing you in. An excellent Petit Mouton in 2021; serious intensity here but also such a liveliness as well as creaminess. It has weight and layers while having fruit intensity and a core of aromatics. There's a softness and delicacy in terms of the tannins and frame - beguiling - but a real base of concentrated blue, red and black fruits - strawberries, red cherries and blackcurrants. You get the stony tones and the clove on the finish but this feels round, expansive and approachable. It's uber glamorous, still with freshness and lift. A gorgeous wine with lots going on! 0.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.73pH. 14% press wine.

Wine Advocate 89-91 Points | Since Mouton-Rothschild itself this year derives exclusively from the two plateaus that always make up the core of the blend, the 2021 Le Petit Mouton benefits from the inclusion of parcels that often make it into the grand vin. Exhibiting aromas of crème de cassis, mint, cigar wrapper, violets and espresso roast, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with a rich core of fruit, powdery tannins, succulent acids and a persistent finish. Characterful and beautifully made, I wonder if I'm being a little severe with my score?

Winemaker Description

Produced from a small walled vineyard close to the Lanson winery in Reims, this is a splendid wine. Its richness is balanced by the intense freshness and minerality of the Chardonnay, with apple and citrus flavors that still in the background. Now mature, this wine is ready to drink.

Expert Reviews

Wine Enthusiast 97 Points | Produced from a small walled vineyard close to the Lanson winery in Reims, this is a splendid wine. Its richness is balanced by the intense freshness and minerality of the Chardonnay, with apple and citrus flavors that still in the background. Now mature, this wine is ready to drink.

Wine Advocate 94 Points | Disgorged in July 2016 with only three grams per liter dosage, the 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos Lanson is showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with notes of dried white flowers, citrus oil, toasted brioche, oyster shell and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and vibrant, with a racy spine of acidity, good concentration and chalky structuring extract. This is quite a tightly knit, tensile wine, despite the warm mesoclimate and two years on cork, which suggests it will enjoy a long future.

Vinous 93 Points | Clos Lanson's 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs is a very pretty, soft Champagne that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. Bright citrus and floral notes, along with soft contours, give much of its immediacy and sheer allure. Understated and classy, the 2007 will drink well for a number of years, but it is also remarkably giving and enjoyable today for a relatively young Blanc de Blancs. Although it is not super-complex, the 2007 offers quite a bit of freshness and character. An open bottle was still in great shape when I re-tasted it a few days later. Disgorged: July 2016.

Wine Spectator 93 Points | Fragrant, featuring lime blossom and ground spice notes, this fine and creamy Champagne offers a broad range of lemon parfait, chopped hazelnut, spun honey and dried cherry flavors, underscored by chalky minerality. Elegant and well-knit, with a firm, focused finish. Disgorged July 2016. Drink now through 2030. 665 cases made.

Expert Reviews

Vinous 93-95 Points | The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a quintessential nose for this vineyard, quite flamboyant yet still with that Rousseau sense of control and elegance, a melange of red and black fruit, touches of wet stone and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, fine weight and density, veering more towards the red fruit profile with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This was once the weak card in Rousseau's pack. That is the case no longer. Drink 2026-50. Neil Martin.

Wine Advocate 92-94 Points | The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, raw coca, warm spices and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it's taut and vibrant, with a more tightly wound, reserved profile than the Mazy-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin. William Kelley.

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2022

Charles Curtis, MW of Decanter writes 94 Points | This emblematic premier cru is a lovely introduction to Domaine Leflaive, with hints of passionfruit, pomelo, coconut milk, spice and smoke. The texture is lush with extract, but there is enough acidity to bring everything into balance. Although this 2022 doesn’t show the same intensity or concentration of the other premier cru wines, the combination of ripe fruit and smoky reductive notes make it a tempting wine for mid-term cellaring.

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 92-94 Points | There is just enough reduction to push the fruit to the background though a whiff of floral character can be discerned. On the palate there is both more volume and concentration to the beautifully textured middleweight flavors that are also appealingly vibrant and particularly so on the complex balanced and impressively long finale. This is notably better than it usually is and a wine that should amply repay a decade or so of keeping. 

Neal Martin of Vinous 91 Points | The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clavaillon 1er Cru is much more backward and rocky on the nose; sea spray and crustacea come through with aeration. The palate is fresh and malic with plenty of energy. It is a little spicy towards the finish with a persistent peppery aftertaste. The palate was more expressive on the day that I tasted it though it seemed just a couple of paces behind Leflaive's other Premier Crus. Cellar for two or three years.

Critic Notes

Charles Curtis MW of Decanter writes 96 Points | The Clos de la Roche from Arlaud is from the lieu-dit Mochamps; the parcel runs from the road up to Domaine Ponsot. 20% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing now in cask, 20% new. The wine is charmingly aromatic, with a ripe, peony-scented cherry fruit and earthy notes. The texture is silky, round, and velvety; there is more aromatic expression but less depth than the Charmes-Chambertin. The wine should start to open in five years and will continue to improve for a further twenty.

Vinous 95-97 Points | The 2022 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has all the tropes you expect from this vineyard, with exuberant wild strawberry, raspberry confit and blood orange scents bursting from the glass. The oak is very well-integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and darker fruit than the Charmes-Chambertin, with impressive precision on the finish. This is extremely promising.

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 93-96 Points | Note: from a .43 ha parcel in Mochamps; 75% from 25+ year old vines and the remainder are from 40+ year old vines. A discreet application of wood sets off the herbal tea and markedly floral-inflected red currant-scanted nose where a background touch of freshly turned earth lurks. I like the sense of energy and volume to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that manage to be both denser and super-sleek, all wrapped in a moderately austere and very tightly wound finale that delivers simply superb length. This is flat out terrific and a wine that should amply reward extended cellaring, indeed I would suggest not even thinking of opening a bottle before 10 years have passed."
*Burghound Don't Miss!*

Producer Description 

Dry Chenin blanc. Bright yellow with green/grey hues. 

This cuvée reveals a smoked and mineral ensemble, paired with white or yellow fruit notes (pear, peach, apple), enhenced by aromas of smoked buts (hazelnut).

Smooth and fresh, flavours of white fruit and citrus, good acidity and interesting bitterness on the finish. Elegant finale, reminding of a white fruit purée.

Expert Reviews

Allen Meadows of Burghoud writes 94-96 Points | As with several wines in the range, there is a subtle touch of wood evident on the ripe and ultra-pure floral-inflected nose of violet, lavender, rose petal, exotic tea and red cherry scents. There is impressive concentration to the middleweight plus flavors that brim with dry extract that imparts a seductive mouthfeel as well as buffers the borderline robust tannins shaping the hugely persistent and strikingly powerful finish. This is brilliant but it's also very much built-to-age so buy it and forget it.

Critic Notes

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 92-94 Points | Sweet Spot: A slightly more elegant nose combines notes of red cherry and raspberry with discreet touches of earth and discreet wood. The slightly finer and succulent middleweight flavors possess very good verve while exhibiting very fine depth and persistence on the first, dusty, youthfully austere and built-to-age finale. Once again, patience strongly suggested as this should make for a beautiful bottle in time. 

Winemaker Description

Created as a tribute to Louise Pommery, Cuvée Louise is an absolutely pure wine which quintessentially conveys the wine-making expertise of the Pommery champagne house. 

The wine has a yellow, slightly golden color with an exceptional brightness and limpidity. The effervescence is fine and delicate.

This 2005 is marked by floral notes in all their complexity. Owing to the long aging, notes of linden, hawthorn and vineyard peach. With its high purity, the bouquet is delicately blended with buttery notes. After aeration, the Pinot Noir expresses itself and the wine gains aromas of roasted hazelnuts and mild tobacco.

This wine is like a caress, its texture is velvety and creamy. The attack is frank, without asperity and imbalance. With incredible harmony and minerality, the heart of the tasting is intensive and structured. The finale, with the gentleness of honey and lemon, comes to punctuate this wine and provides the vintage with signature delicate flavor, noble bitterness and structure.

Expert Reviews

97 Points James Suckling | Grilled bread with flowers, pears and apples. Lots of perfumes. Lavender and some herbs and nutmeg. The palate is tight and solid with fine phenolics and a long, intense finish. Pure and extremely linear and lively. Sophisticated and thought-provoking.

92 Points Wine Spectator | A fresh and lacy Champagne, with a pleasing, creamy range of golden apple, blanched almond and lemon pound cake underscored by a streak of minerally saline and brine.

92 Points Wine & Spirits | A ghost of chardonnays past, this tastes like white grapefruit without the acidity, as if a grapefruit could age past its acidity and still remain fresh. From three estate parcels— chardonnay from Avize and Cramant, pinot noir from Aÿ—this is an elegant Champagne at a peak moment of maturity, flinty and airy with a deep leesy savor.

Expert Review - Vintage 2022

Burghoud Allen Meadows 93-96 Points | An expressive, ripe and airy nose features the relatively primary essence of plum liqueur, kirsch, spice and earth notes. The strikingly intense and sleek larger-bodied flavors possess only average concentration yet there is impressive power on the moderately austere and beautifully long finish that tightens up noticeable as it sits on the palate. I suspect that this will flesh out and add richness with time in bottle though like several wines in the range, this is going to require extended patience.

Expert Review - Vintage 2022

Burghound Allen Meadows | Ripe yet very fresh aromas include those of red and dark pinot fruit along with floral top notes, in particular violet. The vibrant and delicious, if not especially dense, middleweight flavors conclude in a dusty and lingering finish that flirts with rusticity. Solid quality here in a package that should reward mid-term keeping.

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2021 

The Wine Advocate 95 Points | Hints of dried herbs accent raspberries and cherries on the nose of the 2021 Gigondas le Claux. All old-vine Grenache, this is a full-bodied, rich, concentrated effort, with a long, velvety finish oozing dark chocolate. It's exciting stuff, especially considering how difficult the vintage was for some growers.

Wine Spectator 95 Points | Opulent and broad, with a generous cascade of ripe plum and winey cassis notes wrapped in talc-fine yet sturdy tannins. Chewy, with strappy black licorice and cast iron moving in. A seductive, concentrated Gigondas, with impressive harmony as every element hums along toward the seemingly endless finish. Outstanding. Best from 2025 through 2040.

Vinous 94 Points | The 2021 Gigondas Le Claux is at eye level with the Hominis Fides from the same vintage. Powerful and refined, it bursts with intense ripe red fruits, followed by hints of blueberry and traces of cloves, cedar and licorice. This outstanding 2021 red is built around a massive tannic structure. Hence, don't even think about opening a bottle before 2030, as it would be a terrible waste of what eventually will merge into a substantial Gigondas of pedigree and class.

Jeb Dunnuck 94 Points | The 2021 Gigondas Le Claux is elegant and refined, with medium-bodied richness and depth as well as ultra-fine tannins. It has an almost Pinot Noir-like quality in its ripe red fruits, spring flowers, camphor, and forest floor aromatics, and it has good concentration as well as length on the finish. As always, this single vineyard release is all Grenache that wasn't destemmed and was brought up in demi-muids.

Producer Description 

In the glass there is a full color, deep, gold. Has yellow fruit with van toast and amandelen.

A full body followed by a thin length with full height.  A great gastronomic. 

Producer Description 

Experience the luxurious Château d'Yquem 2021 in a half-bottle format. A Premier Cru Supérieur Sauternes, this sweet wine offers a luscious palate of apricot, honey, and spice, with a balanced acidity. Perfect for a personal indulgence or intimate gathering.

Expert Reviews

Producer Description 

Tropical, laid back feel to this - pineapple fruit with bright acidity. Robert Parker compared the sweet wines of Tirecul as the most notable sweet wines from anywhere in the world. Les Pins is the estates entry level sweet wine.

Château Tirecul La Gravière is located in the Monbazillac appellation, in southwest France. This estate was created in 1992, when Bruno and Claudie Bilancini decided to rent 9 hectares of one of the region's flagship vineyards, the “Vignobles de Tirecul”, a site historically considered one of the region's Premiers Crus. Bruno, an oenologist by training, previously worked at the local cooperative.

They purchased the 400-year-old estate five years later and now have 16 hectares of vines. The estate's production is based around four main wines produced most years, a dry white IGP Périgord named Cuvée Andrea and three sweet wines from the Monbazillac appellation. Limited quantities of red Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends and sparkling wines are also produced. The estate uses a high proportion of Muscadelle in its wines. Bruno Bilancini claims that the quality of Monbazillac Muscadelle is superior to that found in Bordeaux, because the Monbazillac vine is largely virus-free. The couple have always farmed using environmentally friendly methods, deciding to adopt organic farming in 2009 and obtaining certification for all their vineyards starting in 2012.

Les Pins is a blend of Sémillon and Muscadelle whose grapes are affected by noble rot . Fermentation takes place in barrels and vats for 1 to 2 months, then aging lasts 12 to 24 months in vats and French oak barrels.

Producer Description 

A nectar from one end of the tasting to the other! An intensely golden adornment, a nose of perfectly over-ripe Chenin, underlined by great elegance, a note of almond cream, quince, very ripe peach skin.

The palate is very straight, freshness, tension and sweetness so well integrated, a finish of candy sugar crystals but also the fine bitterness of the schists, it is a very beautiful vintage, a wine built to last and already so pleasant to taste now. It is the cuvée representative of the estate's terroir, i.e. almost five vines.

Expert Review - Vintage 2022 

Allen Meadows of Burghound writes 88-91 Points | Notes of wet stone, apple, carnation and spice lead to round and supple but slightly denser medium weight flavors that seem almost easy-going on the mid-palate before instantly tightening up on the balanced if youthfully austere finale that could also benefit from developing more depth.

Expert Review - Vintage 2022

Burghound Allen Meadows writes 89-92 Points | A cool, pure and airy nose features aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus rind and an appealing floral top note. There is both good volume and a lovely texture to the generously proportioned and stony middleweight flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the balanced, long and complex finale. This is an excellent Puligny villages, indeed Jobard rarely misses with it.

Expert Reviews

Allen Meadows Burghound 91-93 Points | Here too the nose is quite fresh with its combination of apple, white flowers and just sliced citrus, especially lemon. There is both excellent punch and a lovely texture though only average density to the lingering and balanced finish where a touch of youthful austerity slowly emerges. While this could be enjoyed young, it has apparent development potential so at least a few years of keeping are recommended. (2022). 

Vinous 93-94 Points | The 2022 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru had a lot of reduction when I tasted it from barrel though its intensity was clear. The palate is very promising: wonderful tension here steely and spicier than the Meursault Village with touches of fennel and white pepper on the finish. Quite feisty and surely one for long-term aging. (Drink between 2026-2048).

Expert Reviews - Vintage 2022

Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points | The 2022 Cornas isn't going to match the 2020, but we're not far off. Tasted in its individual components, it has the riper yet still focused, structured style of the vintage, with classic aromatics of blue fruits, violets, iron, and ample textbook Clape bloody, meaty nuances. It's not going to be a massive Cornas and is more medium to full-bodied, with ultra-fine tannins and beautiful balance. It's a brilliant Clape in the making, as well as one for the traditionalist out there.

Vinous 93 Points | The 2022 Cornas is both classic and rustic, with hints of ripe black fruits, earthy tones, and leather on the nose. It's full-bodied, fleshy, and expansive, showing elevated flavor concentration. Beefy and monolithic, the 2022 carries an introverted attitude, finishing with firm structure yet plenty of Clape personality. This needs time.