67Wine

Neta Agave Spirits Bicuixe Candido Garcia Cruz 90 Proof 750ml

SKU: P69635 ISBN:
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$146.99
$146.99
 

Wine Information:

Country: Mexico

Region: Sierra Sur Oaxaca

Sub-Region:

Appellation: Miahuatlan

Variety: -

Type: Spirits

Size: 750ml

 


Maestro Mezcalero Candido Garcia Cruz generally makes one or two batches of Bicuixe every year, depending on how much of this wild agave is ready on his lands or those of his family, who often contribute to

his productions. He never deviates from the practice of harvesting around the days of a full

moon - when the plants’ sugars are most concentrated in the piña - and uses only fully

ripened agave.

His years of experience coupled with the particular native yeasts and microorganisms of his

palenque yield marvelous results. For this batch, Candido, his son, and son-in-law gathered

close to 200 capón Bicuixe of various sizes, harvested from reddish and rocky cascajudo

colorado parcels, with another 100 or so plants coming from a separate red and black

gravelly land, located roughly 1,450 meters above sea level.

The harvest began in the first days of March 2018 and the roasting nearly two weeks later.

Candido and family cooked the agave with mesquite wood for eight days and allowed the

agave to rest for only three days before processing the roasted plants with machete, axe,

and mechanical shredder. This short duration of rest of the cooked agaves was attributed to

the perfection of the cook, something identified by sight, but most importantly, by eating

pieces of the cooked plant, which requires an intimate familiarity with the natural flavors of

each type of maguey. The shredded fibers and juice were placed into four 1,200L capacity

sabino wood fermentation vats and rested for one day before water was added from his

river-adjacent well. The first tina or fermentation tank was ready for distillation eight days

later at the beginning of April.

Dom Candido himself no longer drinks, so much of the composition of the final spirit is done

based on sight and aroma, and often without the use of a proof hydrometer. Carefully

mixing parts of the puntas and corázon, Candido looks for a cordon cerrado, or a “closed

cord” of bubbles that vaguely resembles a honey comb that let him know that the liquid is

of a certain strength of alcohol and that the final composition will meet the high standards

of his peers. In this particular batch, the fats and oils of these quality Bicuixe plants left

behind a deceivingly large and long-lasting perla that would normally indicate a much

higher alcohol percentage. When the lab tests came in, Candido was surprised to learn that

this batch came in at a light 45% alc. The aromas, flavors, and textures are rich and complex

—qualities very telling of their region of origin and the hand of the master craftsman.
Producer Notes

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