L. Aubry Fils Brut Premier Cru is a distinctive grower Champagne from the western Montagne de Reims. Fresh, mineral and quietly complex, it combines Champagne's three principal grape varieties with small amounts of rare historic grapes that are now cultivated by only a limited number of producers.
The Aubry family has grown grapes in Champagne since 1790. Brothers Philippe and Pierre Aubry run the family estate in the Premier Cru village of Jouy-les-Reims, where they have earned particular recognition for preserving Champagne's lesser-known traditional varieties. These include Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau, the local name for Pinot Gris.
The current release is composed of 31% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 31% Pinot Meunier and 7% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The fruit comes from Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy-les-Reims, Villedommange, Pargny-les-Reims and Coulommes-la-Montagne.
The vineyards lie in the Petite Montagne de Reims, an area distinguished by fossil-rich limestone soils. These soils contribute brightness, pronounced acidity and a firm mineral character to the finished Champagne. The estate is progressively transitioning toward organic farming, with close attention to soil health and the preservation of its historic grape varieties.
The current blend is based on 70% wine from the 2021 harvest and 30% reserve wines dating back to 1998. The estate's perpetual reserve provides continuity from one release to the next while adding depth, maturity and complexity to the younger base wine.
Vinification takes place primarily in stainless-steel tanks, preserving freshness and fruit purity. A portion of the Chardonnay is matured in previously used oak barrels, adding texture and subtle pastry-like richness without introducing prominent oak flavors. Full malolactic fermentation is completed to soften the naturally high acidity of the vineyards.
Following secondary fermentation in bottle, the Champagne spends more than 18 months aging on its lees. It is finished with a dosage of approximately 4 grams per liter, producing a dry, energetic and food-friendly Brut style with a fine, persistent mousse.
The Champagne opens with aromas of green pear, crisp apple, white peach and red berries, followed by white flowers, citrus peel, fresh bread and subtle wildflower honey. With air, additional notes of toasted grain, almond, dried herbs and chalk begin to emerge.
The palate is lively and finely balanced, combining fresh orchard fruit and bright citrus with flavors of wild cherry, raspberry and red currant. A delicate mousse carries notes of whole-grain toast, grapefruit pith, lemon thyme and roasted nuts. Firm acidity and a mineral foundation of wet chalk and brine lead to a clean, persistent and gently saline finish.
The small proportion of Champagne's historic varieties gives this cuvee an unusual aromatic complexity, while Chardonnay brings freshness, Pinot Noir provides structure and Pinot Meunier contributes fruit and generosity. The result is an original and characterful Champagne that remains approachable and exceptionally versatile at the table.
Serve as an aperitif or pair with oysters, shellfish, grilled fish, smoked salmon, sushi, roast chicken, charcuterie, mushroom dishes, fried appetizers and moderately aged cheeses.
Wine and Spirits: 92 Points
A fresh and complex Champagne showing red currant, green pear, red apple and wildflower honey. The review praised its lively herbal acidity, generous fruit and the additional character contributed by Champagne's rare historic grape varieties.
James Suckling: 92 Points
Smooth, rounded and beautifully balanced, with bright lemon and citrus flavors, gentle nuttiness and a refined pastry-like texture on the finish.
Wine Spectator: 91 Points
Firm and mineral driven, with wild cherry, berry fruit, wet chalk and brine. A fine mousse carries notes of whole-grain toast, grapefruit pith and lemon thyme through the finish. This review refers to a bottle disgorged in March 2025.
Vinous: 91 Points
Gracious, elegant and charming, with delicate notes of orchard fruit, spice, dried flowers and mint. This review refers to a bottle disgorged in May 2021.
Grape varieties: 31% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 31% Pinot Meunier and 7% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau
Appellation: Champagne Premier Cru
Region: Montagne de Reims, Champagne
Villages: Jouy-les-Reims, Villedommange, Pargny-les-Reims and Coulommes-la-Montagne
Soils: Fossil-rich limestone
Current base blend: 70% from the 2021 harvest
Reserve wines: 30%, dating back to 1998
Vinification: Primarily stainless steel, with a portion of the Chardonnay matured in used oak barrels
Malolactic fermentation: Yes
Lees aging: More than 18 months
Dosage: Approximately 4 grams per liter
Style: Premier Cru Brut Champagne
Bottle size: 750ml
As this is a non-vintage Champagne, grape proportions, base vintages, reserve-wine percentages, dosage, lees-aging periods and disgorgement dates may vary by release. Critic ratings may refer to different disgorgements of the same cuvee.
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