Winemaker Description
Andalucía has a long tradition of producing non-fortified wines—reds and whites made from the same grapes used for fortified wines (Sherry). In Andalucia these still wines are known as Vinos del Marco de Jerez or Vinos de Pasto. It is important to highlight that these wines do not belong to the Jerez-Xeres-Sherry DO. In recent years, producers like Willy Pérez, Ramiro Ibanez and others have led a movement to bring these wines back into the spotlight, aiming to place them on tables around the world.
During a recent in-store tasting with Nacho Monclús, Spanish & South American Portfolio Manager at T. Edwards Wine & Spirits, he introduced me to a producer from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Andalucía: Juan Jurado of Agricola Calcarea.
Mr. Jurado represents a new generation of winemakers who have spent years working abroad, gaining experience in vineyards as well as in both front- and back-of-house roles in the restaurant industry. These experiences have enriched their perspective, and upon returning home, many have sought to revive the long-standing traditions of their ancestors. Mr. Jurado is one such story.
After more than a decade away, he returned to Andalucía and founded Agrícola Calcárea, producing wines in a small-scale, garage-style setting. His wines quickly gained national recognition, attracting the attention of the press. Now, his work has reached New York City, where wine lovers can experience his unique expressions firsthand.
When Nacho presented the wines to me, I was immediately drawn to their beautifully designed labels. The three wines I tasted featured indigenous Andalusian grape varieties, including Palomino (also known as Listán Blanco) and Tintilla Rota. All three expressions stood out, but my palate that day had a particular affinity to Agrícola Calcárea Porfía Tinto 2023 — an electric, vibrant red made from Tintilla Rota.
Porfia Tinto 2023 is unlike any other Spanish red currently available in the NYC market, this wine is a testament to the energy and innovation defining the new wave of Andalusian winemaking.
Porfia Tinto 2023 opens open with an alluring nose of sun-kissed black fruit: black cherries, black berries with undertones of dried Mediterranean herbs. On the palate this red is harmonious walking a tight rope of tannins, acidity and flavor: Suave tannins, crisp acidity and just perfect fruit quality.
Pair this red with Pan-Roasted Quail lightly dressed in thyme butter sauce.
Oscar Garcia Moncada
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