Expert Reviews - Vintage 2020
Australian Wine Companion 97 Points | The Virgilius continues to be the benchmark for viognier in Australia, no doubt prompting a few nervous glances from the French in the process. Pale straw in the glass with notes of apricot, lemon, grapefruit and crisp nashi pear with hints of soft spice, almond paste, marzipan, white flowers and crushed quartz. In the mouth, it weaves its textural magic leaving a slinky wake across the palate, finishing dry and stony with ample acid drive and precision and a lovely 'sucking on a river pebble' sense of savoury composure and elegance.
The Wine Spectator 94 Points | The 2020 The Virgilius Viognier hails from a hot, dry, low-yielding season, yet the elevation of Eden Valley often protects it from the worst of the heat. It leads with aromas of nougat, white peach, apricot, jasmine tea and green apple skins. In the mouth, the wine is silky and svelte, unctuous in its flavor outlay, but taut in the splay of phenolics through the middle and back of the palate. Very smart, again. Matured for 10 months in French oak.
James Suckling 93 Points | Yalumba is the pioneer of viognier in Australia and they continue to do a good job. Fealty to type. Floral lift infused with orange blossom, apricot pith and glazed quince. Round and full-weighted. A nicely measured confluence of viscosity, tactile oak vanillin, oatmeal lees and freshness. Slippery length.
The WIne Enthusiast 92 Points | This premium Viognier, from the winery that has cheered loudest for the variety, opens with flint and almond alongside honeyed orchard fruit aromas. Viognier’s characteristically luscious mouthfeel dominates the palate. The fruit and acidity are quiet, but holding on after a few years of bottle age. A subdued, food friendly and harmonious drop.
Memo Summary Notes
The Yalumba "The Virgilius" Viognier 2020 is widely considered the benchmark for Australian Viognier. Produced by Yalumba, the winery that single-handedly pioneered the variety in Australia, this flagship bottling is designed to rival the great Condrieu wines of the Northern Rhône.
Sourced from the estate's oldest vines (planted in 1980) in the high-altitude Eden Valley, where cooler nights help the grape maintain acidity—a rarity for this naturally low-acid variety.
This is a serious gastronomy wine. It pairs perfectly with richly spiced Asian cuisine (Thai green curry, Beef Rendang), roasted pork with fennel, or buttery lobster. It is also one of the few whites that can handle a truffle risotto.
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