Rioja Wine

Gomez Cruzado El Predilecto — Rioja, Spain 2023

Bodegas Gomez Cruzado is one of Rioja's most exciting modern producers — a historic estate in Haro, the heart of Rioja Alta, that has undergone a remarkable transformation under the direction of winemaker Amanda Klemp, who has brought a precision-focused, terroir-driven approach to the cellar while honoring the estate's deep roots in the region. El Predilecto — "The Favorite" — is a total departure from the Rioja norm: a blend of old vine Garnacha and Tempranillo sourced from two distinct mountain landscapes, united in concrete and crafted to express the full complexity of Rioja's diverse terroir. The Garnacha (65%) comes from Alto Najerilla, in the triangle formed by the towns of Badarán, Cordovín, and Cárdenas in the Sierra Demanda mountains. The Tempranillo (35%) comes from the highest area of Samaniego, near the Sierra Cantabria mountains. Old vines at the foot of both mountain ranges provide greater fruit character and concentration. Fermented separately with native yeast, 100% destemmed without crushing, cold fermented with short maceration, then blended and refined in concrete for approximately five months — a winemaking approach that preserves freshness, precision, and the distinct personality of each site.

The nose bridges two landscapes: red and black fruit intertwine, with cherry and blackberry layered with licorice, a faint balsamic nuance, and an intensity of spice. On the palate, it is juicy and poised — generous, full-bodied warmth with tannins sitting between chalky and plush, freshness carrying the wine forward through a lengthy, supple finish. Precise, modern Rioja that shows two mountain landscapes in one gesture. Age 12–15 years.

Jeb Dunnuck 95 — "A total departure from the norm — intensity of spice and a generous mouthfeel of full-bodied warmth while remaining elegant through the lengthy, supple finish. Age 12-15 years."

Vinous 93 — "Bridges two origins. Cherry and blackberry layered with licorice and a faint balsamic nuance. Juicy and poised — a precise, modern Rioja that shows two landscapes in one gesture."

• Producer: Bodegas Gomez Cruzado, Haro, Rioja Alta, Spain
• Vintage: 2023
• Appellation: Rioja DOCa
• Blend: 65% Garnacha (Alto Najerilla, Sierra Demanda) / 35% Tempranillo (Samaniego, Sierra Cantabria)
• Vines: Old vines at the foot of two mountain ranges
• Winemaking: Native yeast, 100% destemmed, cold fermentation, short maceration, 5 months in concrete
• Size: 750ml
• Tasting Notes: Cherry, blackberry, licorice, balsamic, spice, chalky-plush tannins, long supple finish
• Style: Full-bodied, precise, modern Rioja
• Drink: Now–2038 (best 2028+)
• Best Paired With: Roast lamb, grilled ribeye, braised short rib, aged Manchego, wild mushroom dishes

Two mountain landscapes, one extraordinary wine — Gomez Cruzado El Predilecto 2023 is modern Rioja at its most compelling.

Expert Reviews

Vinous Josh Raynolds 92+ Points | Dark purple. Complex, highly perfumed bouquet of red berries, cherry pit, incense and dried flowers. Spicy raspberry and cherry flavors show a refreshingly bitter quality and are given depth by a note of licorice. Packs a serious punch but there's a surprisingly lithe quality to this wine too. The finish clings with impressive tenacity and repeats the cherry and floral notes. I'd let this wine rest for at least another three years or so. By the way, the 2007 Calvario has put on weight in the last year but also possesses superb energy; I rated it 94 in August. - Vinous 92+

Wine Advocate Neal Martin writes 90 Points | The 2008 Calvario is a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 9% Garnacha and 2% Graciano aged for 18 months in new French Allier oak. The nose offers broody blackberry and briary at first, leisurely unwinding to reveal black olive and violet aromas, with the oak well-knitted into the fruit profile. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, sturdy tannins complemented by the fleshy black fruit laced with just a pinch of white pepper towards the much more elegant finish. It deserves a couple of years in bottle. (2008).

Decanter Sarah Jane Evans MW writes 93 Points |  A wine that smells of luxury and plenty of attention, showing the right balance between oak and fruit and a balancing acidity; expressive and charming, solidly built. Impressive, with tightly crafted tannins, and it should improve over time. Drinking 2019 -2023.

Winemaker Description

Rioja is without question the most famous wine region in Spain, but the region is anything but homogeneous. The three sub-regions – Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Oriental and Rioja Alta – differ enormously. This wine comes from the small hamlet of Labastida in the northwest of Rioja Alavesa, the smallest and northernmost sub-region located in the Spanish Basque Country and characterized by calcareous clay and sandy soils. 

The mastermind behind the Dominio del Challao winery is Manu Michelini, whose family makes incredibly fine, terroir-driven wines under the name Michelini i Mufatto at both their winery in Bierzo, in northeastern Spain, and the Argentine winery in Mendoza. The Challao is the winery's top wine. Medium ruby ​​red with violet. There is significantly more intensity in the glass than with the Garnacha, but this wine still reminds me more of Burgundy than Bordeaux on the nose. The winery is clearly on the trail of elegance. Juicy, fresh wild berries, black cherries, rose petals and black Assam tea, that's delicately smoky. 

Then come violets and freshly fired clay. In the mouth, cassis, fresh blackberries and lots of black cherry again. The intense, chalky minerality is phenomenal, building up gradually on the tongue. Delicately bitter, fresh herbs and a touch of After Eight. The tannins are fine and chalky, and as soon as you feel the structure, the next wave of black cherry washes over your tongue. 

This is not at all what you imagine Rioja to be in the classic sense. But this wine is a lot of fun because of its freshness and mineral intensity without being boring. On the contrary, I am convinced that it will develop gracefully in the cellar for years because it is made for a long life. Super chic fabric and without question a Rioja in a class of its own! 

Winemaker Description

Intense color with purple reflections. The aromas of violets and Mediterranean herbs complement the delicate notes of chocolate and toast from the subtle aging.

Elegant on the palate, with fresh notes that combine with round and sweet tannins. In perfect balance with natural acidity, it is a pleasant and long-lasting finish.

Memo Summary Notes

The Sierra de Toloño Rioja Tempranillo 2023 is a refreshing departure from the oak-heavy, traditional styles of Rioja. Crafted by Sandra Bravo—one of Spain's most acclaimed young winemakers—this wine is a "mountain Tempranillo" that prioritizes freshness, altitude, and purity of fruit.

Food Pairings

    Tapas & Tacos: Perfect for Arrachera (skirt steak) tacos or chorizo al vino.

    Roasted Meats: Herb-crusted lamb chops or roast chicken with rosemary.

    Spanish Classics: Paella Mixta or a simple plate of Jamón Ibérico and Manchego.

Winemaker Description

This wine comes from plots of bush-trained vines on poor, sandytextured soils in the Rioja Alta area. The vines are an average of morethan 35 years old and smaller yields. They are harvested with great care and transported to the winery in small containers. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainlesssteel tanks at a controlled temperature of 28ºC, with prior bleeding-off and a long maceration of three weeks in contact with theskins. Ageing in French and American oak barrels (90%-10%) over 28 months, followed by subsequent bottle conditioning for at least 4 years until it is leaves the winery.

AWARDS
93 Silver Medal · International Wine Challenge (v. 2011).

90 Puntos · James Suckling (a. 2010).

90 puntos · Guía Repsol (a. 2010).

90 puntos · Wine Spectator (a. 2009).

91 puntos · Wine Enthusiast (a. 2009).

91 puntos · Wine Wine Advocate (a. 2008).

SENSORY EVALUATION

Look: Ruby red with a noticeable rim. Excellent brightness and clarity.

Aroma & palate: On its first contact with oxygen, it appears clean but reticent. Then, sweet notes of oak appear, cinnamon, clove and candied fruits. Infinite nuances that change with the passage of time.

On the palate, it is subtle and pleasant, with great finesse uponentry and through the mid-palate.

The tannins are extremely well polished and it has a serene acidity that maintains a long finish.

SERVING & FOOD PAIRING

White meat, oven-baked fish. Cured meat and dark chocolate desserts. 

93 Silver Medal · International Wine Challenge (v. 2011).

Sierra de Tolono Rioja Blanco 2024 750ml

Experience the unique essence of the Toloño Mountains in every sip of Sierra de Toloño Rioja Blanco 2024. Sourced from organically farmed vines at over 600 meters elevation, this wine reflects Sandra Bravo's mission to show a lighter, more terroir-driven side of Rioja. No oak, no heaviness—just clean, honest fruit and a cool-climate edge that embodies the vibrant spirit of the Toloño Mountains.

Sandra Bravo - Artisanal Winemaker

High up in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño, in Rioja Alavesa, Sandra Bravo works in some of the oldest and highest altitude vineyards in Rioja. This young winemaker translates the mountainous landscape into pure and expressive wines in her small winery in Villabuena de Álava, where she works with steel, anforas, and old wood.

International Experience

"I was studying Engineering and Enology in Rioja and then I was working in wineries of Bordeaux, Tuscany, New Zealand and California. When I came back to Spain, I spent 7 years in Priorat. All that experience gave me an open point of view to make different wines here in Rioja (where I come from). I have to say Priorat really influenced me to make artisanal wines, and to understand that the most important is the vineyard, the vineyard with soul."

Rioja Alavesa Terroir

"When I came back to Rioja in 2012, I decided to make wines respecting what the vineyard give and always looking for freshness. I was in love with this area in Rioja Alavesa, calcareous soil, small plots, Mediterranean herbs and always North wind with high altitude (right in the mountain that gives my name's project: Sierra de Toloño)... it was perfect! Because all of this my wines are really mineral."

Organically Farmed High-Altitude Vineyards

Sourced from organically farmed vines at over 600 meters elevation. The grapes are meticulously harvested from vineyards nestled in the Toloño Mountains, where optimal sunlight and fresh temperatures allow for perfect ripeness. These are some of the oldest and highest altitude vineyards in Rioja.

2024 Vintage Profile

The 2024 vintage delivers vibrant aromas of lemon peel, white peach, and wild herbs, with a palate that's crisp and zesty, underpinned by saline minerality and firm acidity. This vintage showcases the lighter, more terroir-driven side of Rioja that Sandra Bravo champions.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Pale gold with green reflections
Aroma: Vibrant aromas of lemon peel, white peach, and wild herbs. Lively citrus notes with Mediterranean herbs
Palate: Crisp and zesty, underpinned by saline minerality and firm acidity. Clean, honest fruit with cool-climate edge. Balanced acidity with subtle minerality
Finish: Refreshing finish with lingering minerality

No Oak, No Heaviness

No oak, no heaviness—just clean, honest fruit and a cool-climate edge. The winery employs techniques to preserve the natural flavors and aromas of the grapes, ensuring a pure expression of the terroir without oak influence or heavy winemaking intervention.

Calcareous Soil & Minerality

The calcareous soil of Rioja Alavesa creates the distinctive mineral character that defines these wines. "Because all of this my wines are really mineral," Sandra explains. Each sip reveals the influence of the limestone-rich soils and mountainous terroir.

Cool-Climate Freshness

Sandra's mission is to show a lighter, more terroir-driven side of Rioja, always looking for freshness. The high altitude, North wind, and cool climate create wines with vibrant acidity and refreshing character that set them apart from traditional oaked Rioja whites.

Small Plots & Micro-Terroirs

She harvests multiple varieties from micro-terroirs over many small plots that together form a fresh, beautiful image of the area. This approach allows each vineyard site to contribute its unique character to the final blend.

Vineyard with Soul

"I have to say Priorat really influenced me to make artisanal wines, and to understand that the most important is the vineyard, the vineyard with soul." This philosophy guides every decision in the vineyard and winery, creating wines of authenticity and character.

Steel, Anforas & Old Wood

In her small winery in Villabuena de Álava, Sandra works with steel, anforas, and old wood. This combination of traditional and modern vessels allows her to craft wines that honor tradition while expressing contemporary vision.

Mediterranean Herbs & North Wind

The area features Mediterranean herbs and always North wind with high altitude. These elements combine to create a unique microclimate that imparts distinctive aromatic complexity and freshness to the wines.

Pure & Expressive Wines

This young winemaker translates the mountainous landscape into pure and expressive wines. Each bottle captures the essence of the Sierra de Toloño, offering an honest expression of place and vintage.

Food Pairing Suggestions

The Sierra de Toloño Rioja Blanco 2024 is an excellent partner for a wide range of dishes:

• Grilled fish and seafood
• Fresh salads with citrus vinaigrette
• Creamy risottos
• Light pasta dishes
• Goat cheese and soft cheeses
• Tapas and Spanish cuisine
• Shellfish and oysters

Serving Suggestions

Serve chilled to unlock its full potential. The crisp acidity and vibrant flavors make it ideal for summer gatherings or quiet evenings at home. Whether you're hosting or enjoying a casual meal, this wine enhances the experience.

Respecting What the Vineyard Gives

"When I came back to Rioja in 2012, I decided to make wines respecting what the vineyard give." This philosophy of minimal intervention and respect for terroir creates wines that are authentic expressions of their origin.

Rioja Reimagined

Sandra Bravo's international experience gave her "an open point of view to make different wines here in Rioja." The result is a fresh, modern interpretation of Rioja Blanco that showcases the region's potential for elegant, terroir-driven white wines.

Perfect for Every Occasion

This wine is not just a wine; it's an invitation to indulge in culinary exploration. Let the refreshing taste of the Toloño Mountains elevate your meals. Discover the magic of pairing with this exceptional white wine, and find yourself enchanted with every sip.