Von Hovel Riesling Scharzhofberg Spatlese 2018 750ml 94 pts Falstaff

Von Hövel holds 2.8 hectares of vines in the famed Wiltingen vineyard of Scharzhofberg, making them one of only 5 ‘significant’ landowners at this site. Max von Kunow farms this vineyard with a focus on expressing the more “salty, mineral style” of Scharzhofberg, with more modest residual sugars and pointed acidity, typically framed by spice ripe fruit.
The wine is fermented with native yeasts and aged in stainless steel. Distinctly spicy and penetrating fruit, accompanied by a great sweet-acid game. The finish is well balanced, with an accentuated fruit in the aftertaste and intense saltiness.

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The Scharzhofberg is considered by many to be the most prestigious
vineyard in the Mosel region. Sipping this beautiful Spatlese from
Von Hovel reminded me why it has earned that vaunted reputation.
The nose is stately elegant while at the same time, quite powerful.
Yellow fruit and bright white berries marry nicely with lemon zest,
spice box, and just a touch of reductive sharpness. A very definite honey sweetness stretches across the palate with just the right amount of lip-smacking tartness to tie it all together. Finishes smooth and silky with a lingering trail of honey and brown sugar.
This is one to savor by itself as dessert in its own right, but would be a lovely accompaniment to simple shortbread biscuits, or raspberry tart.

Rand Sieger, 67 Wine Buyer
Tasted 10/14/2021