Expert Reviews - Digorged 2024
The Wine Advocate 93 Points | Disgorged in November 2024 without dosage yet retaining over six grams per liter of residual sugar, Mousse's NV Blanc de Noirs Eugene is a perpetual cuvee, composed of 50% wine from the 2022 vintage, with its origins tracing back to 2003. Comprising 80% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir—whose ripe skins impart a delicate pink hue—it unveils an expressive bouquet of candied orange peel, pear, peach, plum and pastry. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, rich and multidimensional, with a concentrated core of fruit, succulent yet racy acidity and phenolics that lend a gently bitter edge to the long, resonant finish. While the residual sugar lends it a touch more giving style, it represents a considerable step up in complexity from L'Esquisse and comes highly recommended.
Jeb Dunnuck 92 Points | Made from 80% Meunier and the rest Pinot Noir, the NV Champagne Eugene is a bright yellow color and reveals honeyed aromas of ginger, honeycomb, preserved red berries, and flowers. Medium-bodied, it takes things up a notch in quality on the palate, with a more serious texture, although it remains easygoing and approachable, with a fluffy mousse and a note of savory broth on the finish. It's a very well-styled sparkler to drink over the coming 10 years. Disgorged July 2023.
Decanter 92 Points | Coming from a perpetual reserve started in 2003, it's a delicate but cleverly opened-up, youthful style of dried apple and pear, peach and blossom, succulent with soft cherry but snappily dry and light-footed. 20% Pinot Noir adds a little structure and weight. Cédric Moussé turns out some of the Marne Valley's most refined, charming Meunier wines from the south-facing slopes of Cuisles on the north bank of the Marne river.
Memo Summary Notes
This is the defining feature: it uses a Perpetual Reserve (similar to a Solera system) that blends the current vintage with reserve wines going back many years (often to 2003).
This adds immense complexity, depth, and consistency to the wine.
This is an excellent example of a Grower Champagne that provides the complexity of a much more expensive bottle, thanks to the Perpétuelle reserve system.
Winemaker Description
• Practicing organic
• 80% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir
• 70% 2022, 30% perpetual blend 2003-2021
• From Cuisles, Jonquery, Châtillon-sur-Marne
• 40+ year old vines
• Yes malo
• Fermented and aged in stainless steel
• Aged 18+ months on the lees
• Dosage: 0g/L
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