J.B. Becker Rielsing Wallufer Walkenberg Spatlese Trocken 2023 750ml

Expert Review - Vintage 2023

JamesSuckling.com by Stuart Pigott writes 94 Points | With its aromas of nutty, old-fashioned apple varieties and ripe quince, this striking dry riesling is an unspectacular beauty. It’s medium-bodied with a wonderful harmony of silky acidity, a hauntingly subtle minerality and a very long, stony finish that somehow manages to be very gentle. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. 

Winemaker Description 

The nose here is just a shade riper, with tart citrus flirting with barely ripe apricot, heading toward the peach register though highlighted by lemon curd and lemon zest, pretty citrus elements to brighten it up, even the riper twang of a lime. This has more density, for sure, more richness, though it has plenty of definition. Thinking of these wines in the context of the Rheingau is just crazy; my teeth are aching. The whole collection has acids – I should get the numbers here, if Eva hasn’t already sent them [note to reader: I never got any numbers on the acids b/c I'm just too buried in work right now]. There is a limey quality to this, sticky but fresh, gripping, that I really like. These are very damn good. 

Hans-Josef Becker’s grandfather (J.B.) founded this winery in 1893, and it is home to some truly astounding wines. The Spätlese Trocken is somehow both very serious and firmly structured, yet remains bright and affable. The old vines show incredible concentration - this wine is just a baby and could be cellared for decades. On the other hand, the 2022 vintage displays plenty of juicy, expressive fruit with crushing acidity and a bold mouthfeel. These wines have achieved cult-status for good reason.