By Oscar Garcia, Spirits Buyer – 67Wine
1.What is Mezcal?
Two definitions
- Historically, any Agave Spirit from Mexico.
- Since 1994 there is a governing body (CRM), Mezcal's Denomination of Origin, which serves to “protect” Mezcal and its origins. Below are some of the rules, classifications, etc.
In terms of preparation, both require an agave, best if it has reached maturity (this can take as much as 30+yrs), hearts of agave are cooked, crushed, fermented and distilled. The condensation or liquid that comes from this process is essentially the spirits we drink and call Mezcal.
- There's a lot of confusion between Mezcal and Tequila. What do they share in common? And, what are the most important differences?
- Tequila is predominantly made in Jalisco, Mexico using the Blue Weber varietal of agave.
- Mezcal as the CRM controls is made outside of Jalisco. Currently 9 states in Mexico (Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, Oaxaca, San Luis Potosi to name a few). More variety of agave is permitted in the process.
SO they share Mexico & Agave. What sets them apart is production: Tequila has become a mass-produced spirit, while Mezcal (fingers crossed) is still very Artisanal in terms of production. Tequila has now become a machine, primarily, portrayed as being industrial. Mezcal is still thought to be more "traditional". Using less "modern" techniques, not cutting corners, having smaller production, blah, blah. Most agave used in Mezcal tends to be older mature plants. Having diversity of agave allows for a wide array of tastes. I like to think of it as grape varieties in wine.
- Can Mezcal be made anywhere in Mexico?
- Yes and no. Refer to question 1
- As one of the very few companies to introduce Mezcal to the American Palate, How do you think the American public has received Mezcal?
- Very flattering you think that. Unsure we are of the "very few". We do teach and discuss Mezcal & Tequila often, but also still students to the game. There are by far bigger, heavier hitters out there. When kicking agave to the masses, usually, first and foremost is explaining that they indeed are different. Then it's based on folk’s reaction to the flavors. Mezcal is typically bottled at a higher % of abv and more so than not it's "smoky" that's where the next step in the conversation comes. Going through process, families, different traditions passed down from one generation to the next or the changing of the guard and what new methods have been implemented over time really play a part in what we drink.
With that in mind, Mezcal has sparked interest and it is a growing spirit category. And, this growth has been achieved primarily w/o the use of huge corporate dollars and superstar personalities. It will be of much interest to witness what the next decade holds for Mezcal.
5A. Is all Mezcal made the same way? What are the differences? And, Which are the most important categories in the Mezcal world? What's a Joven? Pechuga?
-Every farmer, family, small business owner, corporate investor will have their way. Lots of differences: To each his own. I don't feel like you can hold technique and tradition across a whole. Many may agree on a certain way, the old way... But there are needs and modifications in order to create range, styles, flavors, etc. There are many ways to approach this.
- Agave - Varietal matters, blends are common.
- Harvest - When it is harvested, was it mature/ ripe, how ripe?
- Cleaning / Cooking - After harvest the leaves are removed and the heart/ piña is broken up into smaller pieces and then cooked. This is where agave starches transform into sugars. Type of oven and the fuel for fire plays a part. Above ground, underground, brick oven, wood fire, decomposed vegetables, autoclave (pressure cooker).
- Fermentation - Yeast pretty much eats up sugar and poops booze. If this is boosted with lab strands or this is left to just happen naturally is a choice. And the vessel utilized happens to influence the final product.
- Distillation - After the fermentation has reached the liking of the maker, distillation can be a final step. Clay and/or Copper Stills, thus far, dominate the kinds in use.
I hope I didn’t complicate this more than I should have. There are many factors that effect or impact the outcome. Before any of this matters you need to like the dram itself. In my mind if something doesn't taste good, I'm not too interested in how it’s made: unless I want to know what to avoid.
5B. What are the differences and most important categories in the Mezcal world?
Recently 3 categories have been acknowledged by CRM (Consejo Regulador de Mezcal), Denomination of Origen. There are many details as to permissions. I'm gonna wing it and try to be straight to the point w/o the details.
1) Modern or just Mezcal - Practice that permits the use of modern technology, machinery, etc.
2) Mezcal Artisanal - Some "tech" ok. e.g. use of stone when pulled by donkey, copper pot. Option for agave fibers
3) Mezcal Ancestral - Old school, no automation, MUST pit roast, use agave fibers, distill in clay or wood pot only.
5C. What's a Joven? Pechuga?
- Joven is a young- NOT Aged
- Pechuga is a style that was made to celebrate the harvest so an infusion with fruits and spices was made. There may be "spiritual" aspect to this where many have also infused with a meat protein (hanging in a basket a la vapor infusion)
- Is all mezcal made from Agave Espadin?
- Espadin is the most commonly grown and used agave. Genetic parent to Blue Weber (Tequila). It yields heavy, has high sugar content and is very giving. Likely most mezcal farmers/ distillers do use Espadin.
- Your favorite way to drink Mezcal? Any particular dishes that come to mind?
I like my Mezcal neat, small whisky glass, and at room temperature. NO ice, and never cold. I don't think being cold or splashing some water helps. Mezcal I feel locks up and tighten, if water or ice is added. The right folks can work a cocktail and substitute in drinks like Negronis or Margaritas or a bespoke cocktail. I don't do the bartender thing. Someone gets paid to make my drinks. I also enjoy drinking it on the side with sparkling wine or cider in the other hand. Double Fisting!
- How should a beginner shop for Mezcal? And, where to drink Mezcal In NYC?
- Look at the bottles. Look for the transparency in the information. Less info is questionable. Always talk to the sales folks or bar folks. They likely know info on what they have. And they more often are happy to share.
- Describe Mezcal in 5 words?
- Unrivaled, Mexican, Plant, Elixir of Life. Browse our Mezcal Collection