Fromagerie Berthaut ‘Epoisses AOC’ (France, 250g/8.8oz)

Our Experts Review - Martin Johnson, 67 Gourmet

Few cheeses command the reverence of Époisses — and none do it quite like Fromagerie Berthaut's. Produced in the village of Époisses in Burgundy, France, this AOC-protected washed-rind cheese is one of the great treasures of the French dairy tradition, said to have been a favorite of Napoleon himself.

Beneath its burnished, brick-orange rind — washed repeatedly with Marc de Bourgogne, a local pomace brandy — lies a custard-soft, ivory interior of extraordinary richness. The aroma is famously pungent and barnyard-forward, but the flavor tells a different story: deeply savory, buttery, and complex, with a lingering finish that is at once earthy and sweet.

This is a cheese that demands to be the centerpiece of any board. Serve it at room temperature, spoon it directly from the rind, and let it speak for itself.

Perfect pairings: Spätlese Riesling, white Burgundy, Sauternes, or a robust Pinot Noir. On the board: crusty baguette, honeycomb, toasted walnuts, and dried apricots.

• AOC-protected washed-rind cheese from Burgundy, France
• Rind washed with Marc de Bourgogne (pomace brandy)
• Custard-soft interior | Rich, savory, and complex
• Made by Fromagerie Berthaut, the original Époisses producer
• 250g (8.8oz) | Serve at room temperature